M1 Lynch Wolfgang Project

[Dino5150]

This project began as a "Wolfie" kit curtousey of Framkenstraat.com.


First the body was prepped, sealed, and primered ...


Then sprayed with a yellow basecoat ...


Then the edges were sprayed with a white burst ...


Next, I had to create the Tiger Stripe graphic that would be transfered to the body.
Here's what I came up with ...


Next, I tranfered the graphic to the body and cut out the design ...

[Dino5150]

Then sprayed it black and removed the masking ...



Got everything wired up ...



And here's where we are now ...
The customer provided waterslide decals for the "Peavey" as well as his very own logo design!



Thanks for looking.
Finished "pretty pics" to follow ...

[AT]

Nice work, Dino. I'm new to finishing work on guitars myself and have learned about how tough this is.

When did you buy the Wolfie kit from Frankenstraat? I emailed them a few weeks ago about bodies but didn't hear back.

[smme5150]

That is badass dude! What a better way to celebrate Eddie and Lynch which are my 2 favorite players! Can't wait to see finished pics!

[muffdiver]

Suhweet....

[vhrocker]

Cool fuckin' ax Dino5150!!!

[Lightning Fingers]

That is freakin' awesome! I'm thinking about buying a kit or two from Frankenstraat.

[Wolfgang_'99]

Good stuff!

[AT]

Frankenstraat emailed me back this time. I've had a brand new (no serial number on it) non-Floyd Wolfgang Standard birdseye neck standing by for a couple of years. They're going to make me a Wolfie body with a quilt top routed for a stop tail. It'll almost be a real Wolfgang!

[TerryL]

Dude... you do awesome work!! Looks smokin!!!!

[cokemach1]

Hey Dino!

Beautiful. I also checked out your site and you've got some killer stuff. GREAT job!

What type\kind of paint do you use? I've noticed on some of the Eddie projects you have done, you have TREMENDOUS gloss.

What about clears? Preferences?

Also, do you have any suggestions for a really good primer? Do you use a sealer, surfacer, both? Or is there any type of etcher (like something in the automotive field) for wood that would really form a good strong chemical adhesion to the wood?

The reason I ask about both clears and undercoats (primers) is the guitars I've done have come out pretty good. But I've never been satisfied with any primer or clear I've used. Both have lead to issues down the road.

Sorry to ask all these as I'm sure you have some trade secrets. You don't have to give anything away, just some general info would be great!

Thanks!

[Dino5150]

Hey Dino!

Beautiful. I also checked out your site and you've got some killer stuff. GREAT job!

What type\kind of paint do you use? I've noticed on some of the Eddie projects you have done, you have TREMENDOUS gloss.

What about clears? Preferences?

Also, do you have any suggestions for a really good primer? Do you use a sealer, surfacer, both? Or is there any type of etcher (like something in the automotive field) for wood that would really form a good strong chemical adhesion to the wood?

The reason I ask about both clears and undercoats (primers) is the guitars I've done have come out pretty good. But I've never been satisfied with any primer or clear I've used. Both have lead to issues down the road.

Sorry to ask all these as I'm sure you have some trade secrets. You don't have to give anything away, just some general info would be great!

Thanks!

Thanks for the compliments guys.

No "trade secrets" cokemach1.
I use an epoxy sealer/primer.
It does both ... seals the grain and acts as a primer for my basecoat.
As for basecoats and clearcoats, I use acrylic urethane.

The acrylic urethane I use is 2-pac (and not the rapper ), meaning it needs to be mixed to a specific ratio with an activator or reducer.
I did rattlecan paintjobs for years and they just didn't hold up.
Plus it would take nearly a year to complete one project with having to wait for that crap to cure. This stuff cures in a couple hours.

What type of paint are you using and what problems have you been having?

[cokemach1]

Dino,

Thanks for your reply.

Yeah, I'm still doing the rattle can deal with the stuff I've done. The clears are horrible. I still haven't had one coat of clear I thought was good enough. Part of the clear's job is to protect the basecoat below. Well, forget that. I think the clear is weaker than the basecoat with some of the applications I've done (yes, rattle can junk is most likely why). And that is after letting it cure for some time (in some cases, several weeks). I just did a first generation Frankie for a buddy of mine. It came out pretty well. But in buffing it, I found out in a couple of areas just how little coverage I acheived with the clear. I used 2 cans of clear knowing that I was going to wet sand and buff. Still didn't matter. I made sure that my application process was consistent (since that bit me the first time I did one). There are a couple of flaws because of it on the back of the guitar. I wet sanded the front just as little as I could, then buffed it by hand. The front actually did come out pretty well (I was shocked at that because of only buffing by hand) No swirls or fine scratches. He was stoked with the outcome, but everybody here knows how it is when you do a project like that, the flaws make you lose sleep. I almost hated to give it to him, but it was also one of those things that it came out so close to being really good (not as good as your's Dino) that I hated to start all over (and I was sort of on a time limit). I used Dupli-Color acrylic lacquer. It came out better than the last few I'd done, but still not like I wanted. The last couple of times I used Krylon. Forget that. The Dupli-Color was half the cost and (at least for now) appears to have done a much better job.

As far as primer goes, I've had adhesion problems. I made sure it was super clean (that's why I asked you about the etching application in my last post). Didn't matter if the guitar was down to bare or not. On the project I just did, I actually left the factory coat on, scuffed it so it would have a good coat to stick to the body, then used a primer sealer (like in the automotive world - a lot of painters will tell you that you can't beat factory adhesion - so if you have a sealer that works well across paint lines, it should be a positive to keep the original coat, scuff, clean and shoot with a good sealer). Time will tell if this method worked for this one.

Coverage is terrible with these. You can put on as many coats or cans as you want (of course after letting them flash), but the paint just isn't tough. I assume that is because of the method of application (rattle can).

Do you get your paint from guitar specific places (I've gotten hardware from Stewart McDonald before, but I haven't bought paint from there)? Somewhere else?

Thanks for your response. I appreciate your open-ness BIG TIME! Good luck with your business.

Coke

[Dino5150]

No problem Coke!

Check out this thread to see "before" and "after" pics of one of my rattlecan paintjobs ... http://www.guitars101.com/forums/f68...ips-46504.html

There's also some pretty good info in there.

Acrylic urethane is the same stuff autobody shops use to paint cars.
When I made the switch, I simply called a few local autobody shops and asked where and who they got their paint from.
As it turned out, the supplier was like 1/2 mile from my house.

[Dino5150]

Finished Pics ...
Enjoy! And thanks for looking.