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  1. #1
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    Default Any input will help.

    Alright boys, I just bought an archtop Wolfgang so now my project is going to be taking my special, and painting it Frankie colors. Home, Sacto, I know this probably belongs in the replica thread, but please let be for a few days as I think it will get more attention and a few more responses here.

    Okay, breaking the guitar down is obviously no problem, (or is it?? Pitfalls??)but what is the best method of stripping the old paint off? Anything that will make this less painless will help.

    A template at that point I'm assuming?? Where my stripes should go, and what kind of paint?? Can this really be acomplished with Krylon?

    Suggestions on re-assembly (pitfalls to look out for) would be greatly appreciated also....yes it has a Floyd.

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    I have only done clean wood projjects.... but I am guessing to do it right... an electric sander... get it all off.

    but on that note and why I replied... wear a mask, that shit that comes off is toxic.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey Metalhead View Post
    I have only done clean wood projjects.... but I am guessing to do it right... an electric sander... get it all off.

    but on that note and why I replied... wear a mask, that shit that comes off is toxic.
    Ouch, that sounds painfull, and possibly harmful to the countour (sanding) of the guitar? Anyone recommend any paint stripping products that would help?? I know we had some around work a few years ago that I might be able to get my hands on again, that stuff was really toxic. Any other tips?

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    Quote Originally Posted by againstthewind View Post
    Ouch, that sounds painfull, and possibly harmful to the countour (sanding) of the guitar? Anyone recommend any paint stripping products that would help?? I know we had some around work a few years ago that I might be able to get my hands on again, that stuff was really toxic. Any other tips?
    I stripped the paint off an ivory Wolfgang Special a couple of months ago. It was one of the bigger pain-in-the-ass things I've ever done. I first tried paint stripper. Then, when it didn't really do much, I talked to my tech at the music store the next day, and he informed me that regular paint stripper doesn't really work on the newer poly-based clear coats and that I would just need to sand. So I got out my Black & Decker mouse and went to work. Collectively it took around seven hours and was VERY messy. Also, you need to be really careful around edges so as to not inadvertently re-shape your guitar.

    If you want to take the time, go for it. I ended up routing the top edge of the body and adding a cream binding as well (another thing that was a lot of work but will be SUPER COOL when completed). The Stew Mac website can be really helpful when it comes to understanding what you need for a job and how to do it: http://www.stewmac.com/

    Good luck! Post pics when it's done!
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by againstthewind View Post
    Ouch, that sounds painfull, and possibly harmful to the countour (sanding) of the guitar? Anyone recommend any paint stripping products that would help?? I know we had some around work a few years ago that I might be able to get my hands on again, that stuff was really toxic. Any other tips?
    keep in mind, I do not use guitars with "tops" or bindings. so for wolfgangs, maybe it wasnt great advice. I could take any of my guitars and sand it the wood with no issues.
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    i remember rol saying the easiest way is to sand the gloss off the finish since its so thick. give it a really good scuffing up , then steel wool.
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    I striped an OLP MM1 a while back. I just sanded down the body to take the gloss off. Of course it was easy on a flat top. You could probably just hand sand it for the arch top. Stripping it down to the bare wood is probably unnecissary. The main thing is just scuffing up the gloss so the paint will stick. Maybe start with more abraisive sandpaper at first, then go to a lighter grit to smooth it out. Mine came out fine. I only did the top though. I taped around the binding. Just leave plenty of time between coats (a day or two). I learned that if you put another coat over a not completely dry coat, It will crack up have a "dried up lake" effect. I had to redo mine because I got in a hurry. It is pretty freakin' cool when you're done and peeling off each layer of tape and slowly unveiling "Frankie".

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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewThomas.net View Post
    I stripped the paint off an ivory Wolfgang Special a couple of months ago. It was one of the bigger pain-in-the-ass things I've ever done. I first tried paint stripper. Then, when it didn't really do much, I talked to my tech at the music store the next day, and he informed me that regular paint stripper doesn't really work on the newer poly-based clear coats and that I would just need to sand. So I got out my Black & Decker mouse and went to work. Collectively it took around seven hours and was VERY messy. Also, you need to be really careful around edges so as to not inadvertently re-shape your guitar.

    If you want to take the time, go for it. I ended up routing the top edge of the body and adding a cream binding as well (another thing that was a lot of work but will be SUPER COOL when completed). The Stew Mac website can be really helpful when it comes to understanding what you need for a job and how to do it: http://www.stewmac.com/

    Good luck! Post pics when it's done!
    How could you put a sander to one of those guitars..... ....I couldn't do it.......then again.....I don't have 25
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by EvH_316_5150 View Post
    How could you put a sander to one of those guitars..... ....I couldn't do it.......then again.....I don't have 25
    I did hestitate when first taking sandpaper to a perfectly good finish! The guitar was originally solid ivory, so it wasn't like it was a transparent flame top or anything. I already have a solid ivory Wolfgang Special, and the plan was to do all sorts of extra routing and drilling to install a Fernandes Sustainer. So I figured I would just have a go at doing a re-finish job. The binding was an afterthought that came while I was looking for supplies on StewMac. The guitar will be transparent dark green all around when done, and all the knob and switch covers, along with the tuner buttons, will be cream to match the binding.

  10. #10
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    I have done a couple. Here are two things I found:

    1. With my Kramer 1984, I just sanded on the clearcoat and made it rough and painted over it and it worked fine. Paint stuck great, no probs at all. This was my second project after the details in #2 below.

    2. I got a MIM Strat body for a VH1 Franky project. I tried sanding and it took forever, liquid stripped didn't work either. I went to Lowe's and got a paint stripping heat gun. It worked like a charm.

    My advice, if you want it all off, don't buy any stripper, get a heat gun and a paint scraper. The heat gun will bubble the paint off and the scraper takes it off like butter, very easy. Have some sandpaper handy for the finishing touches.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ncbuckeye3 View Post
    My advice, if you want it all off, don't buy any stripper, get a heat gun and a paint scraper. The heat gun will bubble the paint off and the scraper takes it off like butter, very easy. Have some sandpaper handy for the finishing touches.
    I've had luck with the heat method too. Much easier than sanding and you can even use a blowtorch, if you don't have a heat gun or don't want to buy one. Just make sure the area you're working in is well-ventilated - preferably outdoors. Also, only apply as much heat as you need to get the paint to bubble so that you can scrape it off. LESS IS MORE.

    Good luck.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Otis5150 View Post
    I've had luck with the heat method too. Much easier than sanding and you can even use a blowtorch, if you don't have a heat gun or don't want to buy one. Just make sure the area you're working in is well-ventilated - preferably outdoors. Also, only apply as much heat as you need to get the paint to bubble so that you can scrape it off. LESS IS MORE.

    Good luck.
    I've used a heat gun to strip furniture, it's worth the purchase in that it's way more forgiving than a torch. But you have got to be in a well ventilated area. I'd even suggest having a fan blowing in the work area just to keep the air moving.
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    Actually, I just acquired a Squier '51 that I'm planning to refinish and trick-out. I just downloaded this book/PDF if anyone's interested:

    http://www.paintyourownguitar.com/

    Seems pretty useful. PM me with your email...
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    I pm'd you

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonmcg93 View Post
    I pm'd you
    Back at 'ya.
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