looking for the block on a floyd rose...

**lil'devil** · 07.27.02, 07:26 PM

... hey all. I was restringing my Wolf a week ago and when i was tightening the screw to hold the string in the floyd, the little black block in the saddle broke.

The weird thing is, absolutely no one i know in Vancouver has one and I can't find any online.

Anyone know where I might get one by chance?

Thanks.

**Radio K.A.O.S** · 07.27.02, 07:51 PM

Check www.stewmac.com
they have what your looking for

**Radio K.A.O.S** · 07.27.02, 07:55 PM

a direct link to what your looking for:http://www.stewmac.com/cgi-bin/hazel...talog/sku.html

[ July 27, 2002, 07:57 PM: Message edited by: Radio K.A.O.S ]

**xaminer** · 07.27.02, 09:27 PM

Stewmac Floyd Replacement Parts

Try this direct link.

**homeunit** · 07.27.02, 09:35 PM

Originally posted by lil'devil:
... hey all. I was restringing my Wolf a week ago and when i was tightening the screw to hold the string in the floyd, the little black block in the saddle broke.

The weird thing is, absolutely no one i know in Vancouver has one and I can't find any online.

Anyone know where I might get one by chance?

Thanks.

try long and mcquade on grandville, they should have all that shit, if not SM will have em for sure.

**ETRIGAN** · 07.28.02, 02:01 AM

For small crap like that I have actually called the manufacturer and told them I can't find a shop that sells that stupid little part.(The problem is nobody gives a crap about commision on a measly $1.50!!!!) They sent me new ones free of charge. Most guitar companies are very helpful in matters such as these.

**lil'devil** · 07.28.02, 12:30 PM

thx guys!

wow, never seen stewmac b4. Great site!

**twonabomber** · 07.28.02, 01:08 PM

only bad thing about StewMac is their minimum order. do what i do, start a list of stuff you need, and see if any guitar-playing friends need any little cheap parts, too. you'll be at the $20 (or whatever it is now) minimum in no time. i'm in Ohio (so is Stewmac) so i get my stuff the day after i order it...

**TheCaboKid** · 07.30.02, 07:28 PM

Yeah the Floyd can be a pain in the ass as I learned recently. Who here has broken a string and throws the axe completely out of tune? I was told by my local guitar tech who has been working on these things for 20 years, that once you lock the cap down you are locked in to that tuning. Maybe he's trying to get me to come back. So if want to change the tuning you have to change the strings; because locking the cap flattens the strings under the cap. He compared it to taking wire cutters and squeezing a wire hanger Supposely you just can't unlock the cap and tune the head, then relock the cap then fine tune at the bottom. You have change the strings. Is this the case? He said most strings will break at the cap. But my first broke at the bridge. The guy is going to tweak my Ibanez by placing a foot under the bridge inside the guitar so the thing won't tilt back inside the body it will stay parallel with top of the guitar. Is this guy full of shit? I'm spending almost 90 bucks for this dude to tweak my axe. Any feedback would be appreciated. [img]graemlins/sleep.gif[/img]

**LarryJ** · 07.30.02, 09:38 PM

Originally posted by TheCaboKid:
Yeah the Floyd can be a pain in the ass as I learned recently. Who here has broken a string and throws the axe completely out of tune? I was told by my local guitar tech who has been working on these things for 20 years, that once you lock the cap down you are locked in to that tuning. Maybe he's trying to get me to come back. So if want to change the tuning you have to change the strings; because locking the cap flattens the strings under the cap. He compared it to taking wire cutters and squeezing a wire hanger Supposely you just can't unlock the cap and tune the head, then relock the cap then fine tune at the bottom. You have change the strings. Is this the case? He said most strings will break at the cap. But my first broke at the bridge. The guy is going to tweak my Ibanez by placing a foot under the bridge inside the guitar so the thing won't tilt back inside the body it will stay parallel with top of the guitar. Is this guy full of shit? I'm spending almost 90 bucks for this dude to tweak my axe. Any feedback would be appreciated. [img]graemlins/sleep.gif[/img]

He's charging you 90 bucks to block a floyd from raising the pitch?!?! I wouldn't pay that much. All you need is a small piece of wood and some wood glue and you can do it yourself. You adjust the floyd to wear its level, measure the space between the inside of the trem block and the body of the guitar. Cut the piece of wood to that size put some wood glue on the wood on the side where it meets the body. Once you have it in place tighten the trem so that it acts like a clamp to hold the block of wood in place until the glue dries.

Also I've never had a problem changing tunings on with the locking nut. If you over tighten the clamps you can flat spot the strings but it you tighten it enough to hold the strings in place they'll be fine. I switch between E and Eb tuning all the time and don't have problems. I've never broken a string at the nut either, always at the bridge if I break a string.

**Rick S** · 07.30.02, 10:10 PM

i did the blocking thing myself with my kramer its a peice of cake, super easy. you know its fucked up that someone like that would call themselves guitar or amp techs when they should be called bullshit artists and scammers out to fuck over other musicians. after much experience ive likened techs to shifty car mechanics.

**TheCaboKid** · 07.31.02, 09:10 AM

He's charging you 90 bucks to block a floyd from raising the pitch?!?! I wouldn't pay that much. All you need is a small piece of wood and some wood glue and you can do it yourself. You adjust the floyd to wear its level, measure the space between the inside of the trem block and the body of the guitar. Cut the piece of wood to that size put some wood glue on the wood on the side where it meets the body. Once you have it in place tighten the trem so that it acts like a clamp to hold the block of wood in place until the glue dries.

i did the blocking thing myself with my kramer its a peice of cake, super easy. you know its fucked up that someone like that would call themselves guitar or amp techs when they should be called bullshit artists and scammers out to fuck over other musicians. after much experience ive likened techs to shifty car mechanics.

Yeah Thanks I going to get my axe before this dude starts working on it. Seems like a shitty thing to do but its ninety bucks! I could buy MXR phaser with that. This other dude told me trick when changing strings on a floyd rose. Put the ball end of the strings through the holes in the gear at head, bring the strings down lock them at bridge and tune it as you normally would. so when break a string all you do is cut the string near the bridge, lock it back up at the bridge with the same string!
you guys probably know this shit.

**TheMightyCopenHalenII** · 08.01.02, 08:42 AM

Originally posted by TheCaboKid:
He's charging you 90 bucks to block a floyd from raising the pitch?!?! I wouldn't pay that much. All you need is a small piece of wood and some wood glue and you can do it yourself. You adjust the floyd to wear its level, measure the space between the inside of the trem block and the body of the guitar. Cut the piece of wood to that size put some wood glue on the wood on the side where it meets the body. Once you have it in place tighten the trem so that it acts like a clamp to hold the block of wood in place until the glue dries.

i did the blocking thing myself with my kramer its a peice of cake, super easy. you know its fucked up that someone like that would call themselves guitar or amp techs when they should be called bullshit artists and scammers out to fuck over other musicians. after much experience ive likened techs to shifty car mechanics.

Yeah Thanks I going to get my axe before this dude starts working on it. Seems like a shitty thing to do but its ninety bucks! I could buy MXR phaser with that. This other dude told me trick when changing strings on a floyd rose. Put the ball end of the strings through the holes in the gear at head, bring the strings down lock them at bridge and tune it as you normally would. so when break a string all you do is cut the string near the bridge, lock it back up at the bridge with the same string!
you guys probably know this shit.

I know some people that prefer to string their guitar that way, but aesthetically, and tonally I wouldn't like to do that. When I was tight on cash, I would add extra windings to reuse a string, but now I never do it. If I break it, I change it, because obviously, you're gonna have wear marks which could marginally affect the tone. Also, when and if any of that slack string has been wound before, I think there's more then enough reason to figure that you aren't getting the optimum strength and tone out of it.

The main reason though, is that aesthetically, I don't care for how it looks.

If I'm not mistaken, I believe there used to be a company or companies that sell devices to block a floater. Granted it won't be as cheap as some of the above methods, but $90, holy hell...

**TheCaboKid** · 08.01.02, 08:57 PM

Originally posted by TheMightyCopenHalenII:
<blockquote>quote:<hr />Originally posted by TheCaboKid:
He's charging you 90 bucks to block a floyd from raising the pitch?!?! I wouldn't pay that much. All you need is a small piece of wood and some wood glue and you can do it yourself. You adjust the floyd to wear its level, measure the space between the inside of the trem block and the body of the guitar. Cut the piece of wood to that size put some wood glue on the wood on the side where it meets the body. Once you have it in place tighten the trem so that it acts like a clamp to hold the block of wood in place until the glue dries.

i did the blocking thing myself with my kramer its a peice of cake, super easy. you know its fucked up that someone like that would call themselves guitar or amp techs when they should be called bullshit artists and scammers out to fuck over other musicians. after much experience ive likened techs to shifty car mechanics.

Yeah Thanks I going to get my axe before this dude starts working on it. Seems like a shitty thing to do but its ninety bucks! I could buy MXR phaser with that. This other dude told me trick when changing strings on a floyd rose. Put the ball end of the strings through the holes in the gear at head, bring the strings down lock them at bridge and tune it as you normally would. so when break a string all you do is cut the string near the bridge, lock it back up at the bridge with the same string!
you guys probably know this shit.

I know some people that prefer to string their guitar that way, but aesthetically, and tonally I wouldn't like to do that. When I was tight on cash, I would add extra windings to reuse a string, but now I never do it. If I break it, I change it, because obviously, you're gonna have wear marks which could marginally affect the tone. Also, when and if any of that slack string has been wound before, I think there's more then enough reason to figure that you aren't getting the optimum strength and tone out of it.

The main reason though, is that aesthetically, I don't care for how it looks.

If I'm not mistaken, I believe there used to be a company or companies that sell devices to block a floater. Granted it won't be as cheap as some of the above methods, but $90, holy hell...[/QUOTE]

**TheCaboKid** · 08.01.02, 09:22 PM

Originally posted by TheCaboKid:
<blockquote>quote:<hr />Originally posted by TheMightyCopenHalenII:
<blockquote>quote:<hr />Originally posted by TheCaboKid:
[img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img] .

Yeah Thanks I going to get my axe before this dude starts working on it. Seems like a shitty thing to do but its ninety bucks! I could buy MXR phaser with that. This other dude told me trick when changing strings on a floyd rose. Put the ball end of the strings through the holes in the gear at head, bring the strings down lock them at bridge and tune it as you normally would. so when break a string all you do is cut the string near the bridge, lock it back up at the bridge with the same string!
you guys probably know this shit.

I know some people that prefer to string their guitar that way, but aesthetically, and tonally I wouldn't like to do that. When I was tight on cash, I would add extra windings to reuse a string, but now I never do it. If I break it, I change it, because obviously, you're gonna have wear marks which could marginally affect the tone. Also, when and if any of that slack string has been wound before, I think there's more then enough reason to figure that you aren't getting the optimum strength and tone out of it.

The main reason though, is that aesthetically, I don't care for how it looks.

If I'm not mistaken, I believe there used to be a company or companies that sell devices to block a floater. Granted it won't be as cheap as some of the above methods, but $90, holy hell...[/QUOTE][/QUOTE]Actually he had already started working on my axe. Installing the trem-stop screw wasn't the only thing he did. He also top and polished the frets, cleaned and oiled the fingerboard and also he added an extra spring to give it extra tension, He showed me, which balanced the tension And of course he restrung. He also adjusted the truss rod and gears. And adjusted the intonation and saddle height. I explained to him the restringing trick I had mentioned in my previous post. He said that was Eddies trick. Have you heard that before? So when I played it felt better than it did before. He explained that when the trem is in there without the stop or block it tilts down back which lessens the tension on the springs. Which defeats the purpose. the guitar is not optimized. But now my guitar is tight so to speak. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]