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Thread: Wolfgang action

  1. #16
    Romeo Delight speates's Avatar
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    06.19.19 @ 07:51 PM
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    I don't think you should need the truss rod tightened all the way. The setup method I typically use is as follows:

    1) Place a capo on the first fret and fret the low E-string on the 22nd fret with your right hand. This makes the low E-string into a "straightedge"
    2) With your left hand, check the distance between the low E-string and the 8th fret. It should be between 0.005 inches and 0.015 inches. I like to use a business card, as these are typically around 0.010 inches. You can also use feeler gauges if you have appropriately sized ones.
    3) If the clearance is too high, your neck has too much forward bow (which makes your action higher than necessary) and you need to loosen the truss rod. If your clearance is too low (less than about 0.005) your neck does not have enough forward bow, which will make your guitar buzz unless your action is ridiculously high, so maybe this is actually your problem?

    Only adjust the truss rod a half-turn at most at a time, and leave the guitar alone for 30 minutes or an hour after adjusting this so the neck can stabilize.

    You MUST get the neck relief set before you move on to any other steps. The next step is getting the proper bridge height and neck angle.

    1) Move the bridge up and down relative to the guitar body until your action is what you like. This can be kind of a pain to do on Wolfgangs, and if you have to raise the bridge too high you will need to block the Floyd Rose.
    2) If the bridge is flat against the body but your action is still too high, you may need to shim the neck. Put a thin piece of sandpaper or business card in the end of the neck pocket closest to the bridge, which will angle the neck back and lower your action. It may take a few tries to get this right, and even a very thin shim goes a LONG way. See the following picture for an example:



    3) I have had a few guitars where the neck had too much of an angle, so I actually needed to raise the bridge up off the body and block the trem. If you don't want to do that, an alternative is to shim the neck on the other end of the pocket, although this looks kind of ugly and it can cause neck shifting issues.

    If you can't get your guitar playing right with this procedure, there is probably something deeper wrong with it. Hope this helps!

  2. #17
    Eruption
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    07.21.19 @ 01:59 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by speates View Post
    I don't think you should need the truss rod tightened all the way. The setup method I typically use is as follows:

    1) Place a capo on the first fret and fret the low E-string on the 22nd fret with your right hand. This makes the low E-string into a "straightedge"
    2) With your left hand, check the distance between the low E-string and the 8th fret. It should be between 0.005 inches and 0.015 inches. I like to use a business card, as these are typically around 0.010 inches. You can also use feeler gauges if you have appropriately sized ones.
    3) If the clearance is too high, your neck has too much forward bow (which makes your action higher than necessary)

    and you need to loosen the truss rod.

    If your clearance is too low (less than about 0.005) your neck does not have enough forward bow, which will make your guitar buzz unless your action is ridiculously high, so maybe this is actually your problem?

    Only adjust the truss rod a half-turn at most at a time, and leave the guitar alone for 30 minutes or an hour after adjusting this so the neck can stabilize.

    You MUST get the neck relief set before you move on to any other steps. The next step is getting the proper bridge height and neck angle.

    1) Move the bridge up and down relative to the guitar body until your action is what you like. This can be kind of a pain to do on Wolfgangs, and if you have to raise the bridge too high you will need to block the Floyd Rose.
    2) If the bridge is flat against the body but your action is still too high, you may need to shim the neck. Put a thin piece of sandpaper or business card in the end of the neck pocket closest to the bridge, which will angle the neck back and lower your action. It may take a few tries to get this right, and even a very thin shim goes a LONG way. See the following picture for an example:



    3) I have had a few guitars where the neck had too much of an angle, so I actually needed to raise the bridge up off the body and block the trem. If you don't want to do that, an alternative is to shim the neck on the other end of the pocket, although this looks kind of ugly and it can cause neck shifting issues.

    If you can't get your guitar playing right with this procedure, there is probably something deeper wrong with it. Hope this helps!
    Actually, one would have to tighten the truss rod to remove a forward bow.
    Otherwise, very good advice.

    OP, gather as much info as you can on the subject, because eventually you will understand the mechanics and physics of guitar set-up, along with practical trial and error.
    There is an whole internet full of advice and how to videos, but it boils down to your own understanding
    Why behave in public...if you're livin' on a playground !



  3. #18
    Romeo Delight
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    07.20.19 @ 08:46 AM
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    So if its too forward, push the truss rod towards the lighter gauge strings.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. #19
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    07.21.19 @ 01:59 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by ah5150 View Post
    So if its too forward, push the truss rod towards the lighter gauge strings.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Looking from the bridge, toward the headstock, righty tighty, lefty loosey, just like a standard threaded nut.
    Move no more than about a sixth of a full turn at a time, and then check the gap with the straight line of the string as speates mentioned above.
    You can bypass the 30 minute wait time by flexing the neck a bit, to help the setting settle in.
    Why behave in public...if you're livin' on a playground !



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  6. #20
    Romeo Delight speates's Avatar
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    06.19.19 @ 07:51 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnbuckle View Post
    Actually, one would have to tighten the truss rod to remove a forward bow.
    Otherwise, very good advice.

    OP, gather as much info as you can on the subject, because eventually you will understand the mechanics and physics of guitar set-up, along with practical trial and error.
    There is an whole internet full of advice and how to videos, but it boils down to your own understanding
    Oops, you're right! Got that backwards.

  7. #21
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    07.20.19 @ 08:46 AM
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    But if im being honest guys, its the same way with my EVH stripe series. The action is high, and the truss rod is turned as far to the right i can go without having to really put pressure. But i feel like my bridge has to be at a 5 degree angle for it to even stop buzzing.


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  8. #22
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    So glad this thread was not a sto l.j en wo l.j f home video

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  10. #23
    Romeo Delight speates's Avatar
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    06.19.19 @ 07:51 PM
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    Do you know what your neck relief is? (Just to repeat, that is the distance from the bottom of the 6th string to the top of the 8th fret, with the 6th string fretted at the 1st and 22nd frets). Sounds to me like you don't have enough neck relief, or maybe the frets are not level. Can be a little tricky to measure, but it helps if you have some feeler gauges or calipers.

  11. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by speates View Post
    Do you know what your neck relief is? (Just to repeat, that is the distance from the bottom of the 6th string to the top of the 8th fret, with the 6th string fretted at the 1st and 22nd frets). Sounds to me like you don't have enough neck relief, or maybe the frets are not level. Can be a little tricky to measure, but it helps if you have some feeler gauges or calipers.
    I think im gonna research more on the mechanics of a guitar, buy some tools, and use your guys’ advice to fix it. And if not, take it to a luthier

  12. #25
    Eruption
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    07.21.19 @ 01:59 PM
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    If you search around, you'll find something like this;

    https://www.sweetwater.com/sweetcare...s-neck-relief/

    Once you got some good background, it's usually good old trial and error that will get you where you want to be.

    It's nearly impossible to diagnose and/or remedy an issue through a chat room.
    Sometimes folks get lucky with a simple tweak here or there, sometimes not.
    Last edited by turnbuckle; 05.20.19 at 06:47 PM.
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  13. #26
    Good Enough CalFB's Avatar
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    I'd take it to get setup, then at least you'll know how it should be, or close to it. Then you can use it as reference for future setups etc..
    Most rock journalism is people who can't write, interviewing people who can't talk, for people who can't read. - Frank Zappa

  14. #27
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    07.20.19 @ 06:49 AM
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    Quote Originally Posted by ah5150 View Post
    But if im being honest guys, its the same way with my EVH stripe series. The action is high, and the truss rod is turned as far to the right i can go without having to really put pressure. But i feel like my bridge has to be at a 5 degree angle for it to even stop buzzing.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I have a b/w Stripe Series. Action from the factory was and still is super low. Too low for me. But I live with it. Your doing something wrong bro. Take it to a good luthier. Not the guys at GC. A real Luthier.

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