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  1. #46
    Sinner's Swing! evhintexas's Avatar
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    10.17.19 @ 03:32 AM
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    I am going with Musikraft. The Northern Ash Franky body and 2 piece banana #1 headstock with rosewood fretboard. Going with Medium 6105 Frets, 10 to 14 compound radius with the thin C 79 to 89 profile....
    Gonna strip a Wolf Standard of its hardware and probably slap a SD JB in it for a pickup.
    Although, the Wolf has black chrome hardware--might just buy all the hardware cause bright chrome seems in order for this...

    I have a question for anyone who has bought the Musikraft neck...
    It states Raw, Tung Oil, or Aged Oil.

    Is it really a big deal to get the neck "Raw" and just seal it myself as soon as I get it?
    I mean, has anyone ever received a warped or twisted neck ?

    I understand the risk but $60.00 to slap and finish a coat of oil on there seams a bit excessive...

    Does anyone have any suggestions on the neck profile?
    I believe the Fender Wolfs are .79 to .88 with a 12 to 16 Fretboard radius.
    Last edited by evhintexas; 02.23.19 at 08:24 PM.
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  2. #47
    Baluchitherium Jedi McFly's Avatar
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    10.17.19 @ 06:41 AM
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    Quote Originally Posted by evhintexas View Post
    I have a question for anyone who has bought the Musikraft neck...
    It states Raw, Tung Oil, or Aged Oil.

    Is it really a big deal to get the neck "Raw" and just seal it myself as soon as I get it?
    I mean, has anyone ever received a warped or twisted neck ?
    Iíve got 4 Warmoth and 1 Musikraft necks. Iíve never bought a neck with a finish. Just a bit of gunstock oil and wax does the trick for me.

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  4. #48
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    07.21.19 @ 08:13 AM
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    One thing I have never understood is why are there different routing requirements for Floyds? The licensed ones are all following the same schematic (even though they occasionally add their own tweaks) and the Floyd Rose brand themselves are definitely using the same schematics - just switching out steel and bras for zinc allow for the Specials so why the different routings?

  5. #49
    Atomic Punk RRvh1's Avatar
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    10.17.19 @ 05:35 AM
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlofeldsCat View Post
    One thing I have never understood is why are there different routing requirements for Floyds? The licensed ones are all following the same schematic (even though they occasionally add their own tweaks) and the Floyd Rose brand themselves are definitely using the same schematics - just switching out steel and bras for zinc allow for the Specials so why the different routings?
    Are you talking about the top routs that have some Floyds slightly recessed into the guitar body, as opposed to just sitting on top? I believe that's for 'better' and/or lower action, as opposed to having to possibly shim the neck.

    My Warmoth Sambora body has a top mounted Floyd (non floating) with an angled neck pocket for that reason. To simulate having neck shims.
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  6. #50
    Eruption
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    10.15.19 @ 04:55 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by RRvh1 View Post
    Are you talking about the top routs that have some Floyds slightly recessed into the guitar body, as opposed to just sitting on top? I believe that's for 'better' and/or lower action, as opposed to having to possibly shim the neck.

    My Warmoth Sambora body has a top mounted Floyd (non floating) with an angled neck pocket for that reason. To simulate having neck shims.
    Top routes are usually required for the floater people, that like to pull up.
    For down only people, there's no need for that clearance.
    One can be a floater person without the top route, but will require raising the studs, and hence require some neck shimming, to compensate for the higher string height.

    IMHO, the ideal Floyd route, for down only use, would be the bridge plate contacting the face, and the spring block contacting the body, simultaneously at the zero position.
    If that spring block to wood contact is already gone, a filler block, or trem stop gadget would be the next best thing.
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  8. #51
    Emperor of VHLinks.com Brett's Avatar
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    10.17.19 @ 06:32 AM
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    If youíre not going to float the Floyd I see no reason for a recessed set up. The Charvel I bought has one, but Iíve already blocked the Floyd so that route is pointless for me.
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  9. #52
    Emperor of VHLinks.com Brett's Avatar
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    10.17.19 @ 06:32 AM
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    I donít buy necks with any finish on them and I donít put anything on them. I like the natural oils from my hand creating that for me. Iíve never had an issue with warping or anything. But I also live in a climate where the weather rarely changes.
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  11. #53
    Eruption
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    10.15.19 @ 04:55 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post
    I donít buy necks with any finish on them and I donít put anything on them. I like the natural oils from my hand creating that for me. Iíve never had an issue with warping or anything. But I also live in a climate where the weather rarely changes.
    Yeah, i'd say if a neck is gonna warp, it's gonna warp.
    I think they try to sell the sealing issue for liability reasons.
    Shucks, Ed took his guitars all around the world, all the time.............................a real long time ago, anyway
    Why behave in public...if you're livin' on a playground !



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  13. #54
    Atomic Punk RRvh1's Avatar
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    10.17.19 @ 05:35 AM
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    Interesting, because all my favorite guitars in the past - Charvel, Fender, Kramer, Ibanez - had neck finishes. Even my Sterling AX40's have them.

    I owned a genuine EBMM, and only have experience with the Peavey Wolgang Specials with bare necks.
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  14. #55
    Emperor of VHLinks.com Brett's Avatar
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    A lot of the reason I donít do it itís just because I donít want to be bothered with it. The neck comes, it plays fine I just play it. Never had an issue so donít plan to change.
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  15. #56
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    07.21.19 @ 08:13 AM
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    Sorry guys, I think I misled you in what I meant. I was referring to the hole size needed to be cut and the positioning of the posts and all that. I don't like routing out the body to allow more pull up and don't want it on any guitar of mine but I've read that if you have a guitar with a FR system and you want to change it to another - be it OFR, FR Special, Gotoh etc - then you need to be careful because they aren't interchangeable and need adjustments made to the guitar body.

  16. #57
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    10.15.19 @ 04:55 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by RRvh1 View Post
    Interesting, because all my favorite guitars in the past - Charvel, Fender, Kramer, Ibanez - had neck finishes. Even my Sterling AX40's have them.

    I owned a genuine EBMM, and only have experience with the Peavey Wolgang Specials with bare necks.
    If woods are properly dried, there's much less chance of them warping.
    Wood contains water molecules. The surface moisture quickly evaporates, but the inner cells take much longer, as in years and years. If wood is quickly harvested and produce into parts immediately, there's more chance of warping problems.
    Lately, roasting has become a popular and effective way of speeding up the process.

    Violin makers usually age their wood, for fifty years sometimes.
    Wait, so they have to grow old, waiting for that time to build a violin?
    No, they purchase already "seasoned" lots of wood.
    Why behave in public...if you're livin' on a playground !



  17. #58
    Sinner's Swing! Rokgtar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post
    You donít have to paint it, you can buy a body already factory-painted. The only time I havenít bought a factory-painted guitar are on the stripe ones Iíve done that Iíve painted myself.

    You should be just fine buying parts from all over as long as theyíre just standardized parts.



    I agree I donít think youíll have much issue if you buy a better axe, just take your time.



    KNE Guitars is another guy who makes EVH-type stuff. He makes great bodies and necks although he will not cut a Strat headstock for you because he doesnít have the rights. Yes he does it for me on the down low but thatís because I know him and Iíve bought a lot of stuff from him. He will not do it for anyone else as he does not want to get in trouble. He is local for me so I love using his stuff and I have his necks on almost everything. I actually drive to his house to pick my stuff up. So basically my custom guitars all feel the same.

    All these striped guitars are KNE necks and bodies. And the neck on that Dave Murray thing is too.






    Yeah it was on the Warmoth site. I just picked one I liked and bought it. I had them drill the holes where I wanted and that was it. It was an amazing guitar but like I said I just didnít play it a lot, so I wanted it to have a good home. To me it was easily an $1,100 guitar if it had a name brand on it. It had a real German Floyd on it, Schaller tuners, and a Wolfgang pickup. It was a quality axe that sounded great.



    Because it ainít a Fender.

    I donít put any logos on my headstocks, unless Iím making a 5150 and I put the Kramer one on there.




    You want a Strat jack on the side of the body?



    Youíre not going to drill the trem holes. You need to buy a body that already has Floyd holes in it, or if you buy it from Warmoth they do it as part of the price. Most companies do drill them for you. I would never buy one where I have to drill them myself.

    You donít need specific tuning pegs for a Floyd. Just make sure they are inline for a Strat neck if thatís what youíre going for.
    Brett - I see the top of what looks like an Orange practice amp there - correct? What model is it? You like?

    I just picked up a small 15 watt Orange practice amp from my boss for 30 bucks. I must say, I've really been enjoying the clean tones from it via my Strat and Tele. For 30 bucks I just couldn't miss.

  18. #59
    Atomic Punk RRvh1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by turnbuckle View Post
    If woods are properly dried, there's much less chance of them warping.
    Wood contains water molecules. The surface moisture quickly evaporates, but the inner cells take much longer, as in years and years. If wood is quickly harvested and produce into parts immediately, there's more chance of warping problems.
    Lately, roasting has become a popular and effective way of speeding up the process.

    Violin makers usually age their wood, for fifty years sometimes.
    Wait, so they have to grow old, waiting for that time to build a violin?
    No, they purchase already "seasoned" lots of wood.
    Damned phone... I just re-read my post that you quoted, and meant to say 'I never owned a genuine EBMM...'

    Neat info about the moisture stuff and the neck roasting trend. Good to see you around again, pal!
    "There's too many people on this basketball that's floating around the sun, who are too afraid to allow themselves to FEEL" - Edward Van Halen
    "Van Halen was never about the singer..." - A very wise fan.
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  20. #60
    Eruption
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    10.15.19 @ 04:55 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlofeldsCat View Post
    Sorry guys, I think I misled you in what I meant. I was referring to the hole size needed to be cut and the positioning of the posts and all that. I don't like routing out the body to allow more pull up and don't want it on any guitar of mine but I've read that if you have a guitar with a FR system and you want to change it to another - be it OFR, FR Special, Gotoh etc - then you need to be careful because they aren't interchangeable and need adjustments made to the guitar body.
    The post hole location is critical, and I think should be the same for whatever Floyd you use.
    As for removing the rest of the wood for the chosen trem system, I would recommend removing less is better, because it's easier to remove more here or there, than it is to put it back.
    Putting it back is not impossible, it's just a PITA.

    Measure twice (or thrice), and cut once

    Maybe test out the clearances and locations of everything, by routing into a chunk of scrap first.
    Or, maybe just get the thing already routed, if in doubt, farm it out.
    Why behave in public...if you're livin' on a playground !



 

 

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