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  1. #31
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    I also had to take down some of this side of the heel with some files and sandpaper since there was a little bit too much material for the neck:



    Drilled the neck ferrules with a 15mm forstner bit. These ferrules are the All Parts version:


    I wasn't 100% happy with the dropoff on the heel here, so I workd on it so more to smooth out the transition.


    Strings lined up and necb bolts installed:




    I'm at the point now where there's lots of little details to work out. I'm going to do the "scoop" on the headstock and have been experiemnting on some scrap pieces of poplar before I attempt to do it on a $300 neck.



    One thing I've never liked about the Wolfgang and Axis guitars is the direct-mount pickups. I'm not sure that I 100% buy into the tonal advantage argument, but the inability to make adjustments to the pickup heights without modification is definitely drawback IMO (especially if you ever swap out pickups). Les Pauls seem to sound just fat and fine with the pickups just hanging in the cavities. I'm not a big fan of the way pickup rings look on the Wolfgang body, so I bought some of these small brass inserts to go into the body. This should provide plenty of adjustment if used with screw springs and some foam underneath the pickups. I'm waiting to install these until I actually decide on pickups and get them in so that I can determine if any wood needs to be removed first.


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  3. #32
    Eruption KS 5150's Avatar
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    I think you need to auction off that neckless Peavey Wolfgang head...would be a nice souvenir on a desk or something! Or maybe I just miss the Wolfgang I used to have lol
    "People ask me how far I've come. And I tell them twelve feet: from the audience to the stage." - David Lee Roth

  4. #33
    Emperor of VHLinks.com Brett's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KS 5150 View Post
    I think you need to auction off that neckless Peavey Wolfgang head...would be a nice souvenir on a desk or something! Or maybe I just miss the Wolfgang I used to have lol
    Thereís a guy on Facebook that has a ton of them for sale.
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  6. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post
    Thereís a guy on Facebook that has a ton of them for sale.
    Yep, this one came from Derrick. Havenít decided what to do with it yet but itíll probably end up as a desk novelty item.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #35
    Eruption KS 5150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post
    There’s a guy on Facebook that has a ton of them for sale.
    Thanks for the tip...maybe I'll get in touch
    "People ask me how far I've come. And I tell them twelve feet: from the audience to the stage." - David Lee Roth

  8. #36
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    Not much progress since the last update. Iíve been heavily researching finishing techniques in my free time and Iím going to start on the body this week.

    For the neck, Iím just going to lightly sand the lacquer sealer that Musikraft sprayed and then apply Timbermate grain filler to the mahogany. After thatís sanded down, Iím going to just do a couple of light coats of boiled linseed oil and call it a day.

    My plans for the body are to grain fill the mahogany as well. I ordered a few various colors of dye in the yellow/gold/light brown spectrum. Once the top is dyed, Iím going to brush on some sanding sealer and use wipe on poly for the final topcoat.

    Hereís a pic of the final ďscoopĒ on the headstock. Turned out pretty close. Bottom pic is after a quick wipe with naphtha.





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  10. #37
    Eruption KS 5150's Avatar
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    The headstock looks great!
    "People ask me how far I've come. And I tell them twelve feet: from the audience to the stage." - David Lee Roth

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  12. #38
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    12.13.19 @ 03:38 AM
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoKart Mozart View Post
    Not much progress since the last update. Iíve been heavily researching finishing techniques in my free time and Iím going to start on the body this week.

    For the neck, Iím just going to lightly sand the lacquer sealer that Musikraft sprayed and then apply Timbermate grain filler to the mahogany. After thatís sanded down, Iím going to just do a couple of light coats of boiled linseed oil and call it a day.

    My plans for the body are to grain fill the mahogany as well. I ordered a few various colors of dye in the yellow/gold/light brown spectrum. Once the top is dyed, Iím going to brush on some sanding sealer and use wipe on poly for the final topcoat.

    Hereís a pic of the final ďscoopĒ on the headstock. Turned out pretty close. Bottom pic is after a quick wipe with naphtha.





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Looking Good! Real Good!

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  14. #39
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    Itís odd seeing a ďbeheadedĒ Peavey headstock.

  15. #40
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    Alright, on to the good stuff! I started the finishing work over the past few nights. I feel like I spent most of more time doing prep work and sanding, but that doesn't make for good pictures. I sanded both the body to 220 grit (top to 320) and I also sanded the lacquer sealer off the neck that Musikraft put on there from the factory since I wanted to go with an oil finish on it.

    Next step was grain filling the mahogany on the body and neck with Timbermate (mahogany color). I used a combination of brushing it on, working it in with a rag, and using a plastic scraper to get as much of the excess off as possible. Around the time I took these pictures I thought, "Gee...do I really know what I'm doing?" since it looks horrible:





    This is after I sanded off the Timbermate; think I used 220 grit for this.



    If any of you guys watch "BigDGuitars" on Youtube, he does fantastic work with these alcohol based Angelus leather dyes. I ordered 4 different colors to play around with since they're only about $4 a bottle: Dark Brown, Yellow, Tan (looks orange), and Gold. I did some experimenting on this scrap piece of maple. On the left side of the tape are the colors dyed direct; on the right side I dyed that entire half Dark Brown and sanded it back, then applied the Yellow, Tan, and Gold on top. My original plan was to do Dark Brown on the top, sand it back, then apply the Yellow.



    Something about that Gold color really sparked my interest though. I figured I'd at least try it on the back; it turned out great on the mahogany.



    Here's a closeup of the grain; the Timbermate takes dye extremely well:




    I went back and forth on what color to do the top and finally just bit the bullet and decided to try the Gold on it as well:

  16. #41
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    This is after the Gold was applied. I was really happy with the way it turned out like this.


    Since I was going to try sanding it back and reapplying the dye anyway, I thought I'd try to darken the edges a bit and feather it in. This did NOT turn out the way I had hoped; waaay too dark.



    I probably should've let it dry overnight but I went ahead and basically started all over; I tried just pulling some of the dark color out but ended up having to start from scratch at 80 grit. Then I reapplied the Gold:



    I decided to let the dye dry overnight and re-evaluate in the morning. I went ahead and sanded the neck up to 400 grit on the back and rubbed in two good coats of boiled linseed oil and wiped down the excess. Feels fantastic:



    This is what the top looked like after drying overnight. Looked pretty good but there were a few splotchy spots.



    Since I was planning on sanding this back anway and reapplying the color in order to enhance the figure, I thought I'd experiment with the Yellow. So I sanded back the top using 240 grit paper and hit it with the Yellow:



    I honestly probably could've lived with that but this shade of Yellow/Amber has been done to death on Wolfgangs and I was going for something different.

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  18. #42
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    While the Yellow was still fresh on the top, I took my rag that was soaked in Yellow and used that rag to reapply the Gold color. VERY happy with the results:




    I even got the headstock to match pretty well:



    Mock up:


    And another:


    I've rubbed down the top some with 0000 steel wool in order to pull back a little color and make the grain pop more (a good tip from Derek at BigDGuitars). I'm going to give it a couple of days to completely dry and then brush on some lacquer sanding sealer.

    Just have to decide on a final top coat for the body and top. I originally was going to use my Dad's preferred concoction for his wood turning projects of equal parts Shellac/Boiled linseed oil/denatured alcohol. Then I decided just to go with Tru Oil, which I've worked with several times before. Then I thought I'd just do several coats of satin wipe-on polyurethane for ease/durability and to keep the color on the top from changing further since Tru Oil has that amber hue to it. Still haven't made up my mind on that yet.

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  20. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoKart Mozart View Post
    This is after the Gold was applied. I was really happy with the way it turned out like this.


    Since I was going to try sanding it back and reapplying the dye anyway, I thought I'd try to darken the edges a bit and feather it in. This did NOT turn out the way I had hoped; waaay too dark.



    I probably should've let it dry overnight but I went ahead and basically started all over; I tried just pulling some of the dark color out but ended up having to start from scratch at 80 grit. Then I reapplied the Gold:



    I decided to let the dye dry overnight and re-evaluate in the morning. I went ahead and sanded the neck up to 400 grit on the back and rubbed in two good coats of boiled linseed oil and wiped down the excess. Feels fantastic:



    This is what the top looked like after drying overnight. Looked pretty good but there were a few splotchy spots.



    Since I was planning on sanding this back anway and reapplying the color in order to enhance the figure, I thought I'd experiment with the Yellow. So I sanded back the top using 240 grit paper and hit it with the Yellow:



    I honestly probably could've lived with that but this shade of Yellow/Amber has been done to death on Wolfgangs and I was going for something different.
    Right on Brother! Looks Fantastic!

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  22. #44
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    Right on! Looks great, and the amount of work you've put in is commendable!
    "There's too many people on this basketball that's floating around the sun, who are too afraid to allow themselves to FEEL" - Edward Van Halen
    "Van Halen was never about the singer..." - A very wise fan.
    "Embrace the past. Live in the moment but keep your eyes on the future, and keep on moving forward..." - Richie Sambora

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  24. #45
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    Haven't posted an update in a while. I've been going back a forth a lot on the finish. Had a few setbacks and I've sanded it down and started it over 4 times now. ha! I tried several different things and have settled on Tru Oil for the top and satin wipe-on poly on the back and sides. The top color is a little uneven in spots due to me having to level sand a few areas but I can live with it.







    Just to share a few "lessons learned" so hopefully others can learn what NOT to do:

    -After the first round of dye, I applied one coat of Deft brush-on lacquer sealer to the entire body. I let it dry overnight and when I went to level sand the sealer, I started pulling the color from the top. Couldn't salvage the bad spot, so I sanded down and started over. Takeaway: If you do a sanding sealer, apply two coats for a little thicker coverage and use extra fine sandpaper to level sand (320 or higher grit). Also, not sure what "central nervous system damage" and kidney failure smells like, but the Deft lacquer sealer definitely smells like it would cause it. That stuff is nasty; won't be using it again.

    -I re-dyed and wasn't happy at all with the way the color turned out the second time. It just seemed overall dull. I even rubbed a coat of Tru Oil over the top and it was really streaky and uneven. My guess was some of the sealer that I had sanded off had worked it's way into the pores, so I resanded the top starting at 80 grit. At this point, I was happy with the back and sides so I just resanded the top.

    -Redyed and applied a water-based sanding sealer (2 coats) to the top. It really made the grain pop. After level sanding it,I decided to try a wipe-on poly. I had already put 2 coats of the Minwax with Satin sheet on the back and sides and thought I'd buy some of the Gloss kind for the top. It's REALLY glossy. So glossy that I ended up with some serious runny, orange-peel spots. When I went to level sand the first coat, I again ended up with spots where the color started pulling out again. Takeaway: Minwax Wipe On Poly Gloss is REALLY glossy. Be careful level sanding the first coat.

    -Sanded back the top starting at 120. This time I redyed, said "screw it" and bought a bottle of Tru Oil since I know how to work with it pretty well. I'm about 5 or 6 coats in and am really happy. After the first coat had dried, I went sanded with 600 grit paper to even everything out and ended up with a few light spots but I can live with it. Since I already had done 2 coats of the Minwax-Satin wipe-on poly on the back and sides, I'm just going to do a couple more of those.
    Last edited by GoKart Mozart; 11.09.19 at 12:09 PM.

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