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  1. #1
    Romeo Delight MusicFan57's Avatar
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    09.22.15 @ 12:47 PM
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    Default Musikraft neck question

    You might remember a couple of months ago
    I had received the musikraft Franky body and
    the trem route was too shallow, so I sent it
    back and they fixed it.

    Finally, I got the musikraft Franky birdseye
    neck. It said it was for the R-3 nut.
    I did a quick mock set up and could clearly
    see the nut sitting way too high.

    I don't feel like sending this back, would rather
    attempt fixing it. The question is, do I try
    to sand down a hardened steel OFR nut,
    or sand down the nut shelf?

    BTW, this project is inspired by jimi's black
    franky, except mine will just be all black.
    Thanks jimi!

    Looking forward to any advice on this one.
    Want to get this project moving forward
    finally. Thanks in advance!
    2013 EVH Black n White Striped Series Guitar
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    2012 Ace Frehley Epiphone Budokan
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  2. #2
    Eruption garbeaj's Avatar
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    12.10.17 @ 10:38 AM
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    I know you had a good experience when you sent the body back to Musikraft...why not send the neck back? If you are just trying to save the shipping cost, you might be better off sending it back to them and getting them to fit your nut properly.

  3. #3
    Romeo Delight Tank2000's Avatar
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    12.15.17 @ 02:32 PM
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    I think we all know how frustrating it can be waiting for parts to start a project out how tempting it is to jump right, but send it back to musikraft. A flood nut shelf prep should not be done by an amateur. Somethings on a guest if you are off by a fraction of a centimeter can ruin a guitar and I'm sure you don't want that happening to what I'm sure is a $300+ neck
    Earn this...

  4. #4
    Good Enough Kevin Dodds's Avatar
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    In this situation, if you have one or more nearby, just walk it into a repair shop (or call ahead) and tell someone you need the shelf modified slightly -- I'm assuming you need less than 1/4" shaved off. That's something a repair tech could do in less than 5 minutes. I'd just hand him a $20.

    If the nut sits too high, you can still have decent action and playability, but the first 1-3 frets will buzz because of the harsh angle. I'm hardcore about DIY -- but I've also RUINED things. If you are absolutely not comfortable with a file or sandpaper, don't risk it.

    This is a shame to hear because I just bought my first two Musikraft parts -- Pacer body and 5150 hockey neck -- and they are outrageously perfect and beautiful.

    Best of luck.

    KBD3
    Last edited by Kevin Dodds; 12.10.14 at 08:27 AM. Reason: sp.

  5. #5
    Eruption garbeaj's Avatar
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    Yep, Kevin is right...if you want it fixed right now any competent tech can put the nut on for you. But I would personally just send it back to Musikraft and have them install the nut for you. I know it is frustrating, but if you have read about any of my projects, it takes me YEARS to get everything just the way I want it, but I know I always get the perfect instrument in the end. But for immediate use, I'd say Kevin is right about the price...it shouldn't cost more than $30 for a good tech to actually install the nut for you.

    Musikraft makes great stuff and I swear by their products and their customer service. Scott goes way above and beyond for Van Halen fans especially. But they do have occasional problems. My banana headstock Kramer 5150 style neck that I got from them with stainless steel frets had a few frets that needed to be reseated and adjusted a bit. Also my nut shelf had to be finessed a bit to fit my R2 nut. Some extra work for my tech, but it is an amazing neck. My favorite strat style neck hands down, especially with the EBMM/5150 profile. It is easy to see why Ed liked it so much.

    On another note, I would recommend to those interested in buying a neck from Musikraft should consider spending the extra $30 to get a neck with the nut already installed.
    Last edited by garbeaj; 12.10.14 at 09:53 AM.

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  7. #6
    Romeo Delight MusicFan57's Avatar
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    09.22.15 @ 12:47 PM
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    I agree that Musikraft makes great stuff, no doubt about that. I got this neck directly
    from Musikraft off of ebay. Saved about $100 if I had ordered the same neck from their
    website. The main reason I don't want to send it back is the weather. I'm in Florida and
    they are in New Jersey. My friend knows a great, very OCD, tech and I may just ask him
    what he would charge. In some post on some board, I think it was jimi had shown pics
    comparing an R3 to an R2, showing how it's not just a string spacing difference, but also
    a height difference. I may try putting the R2 on, just to see if it was cut for that on
    accident. I don't think I would mind if the nut was a teeny bit narrower than the neck.

    This is the Franky, birdseye maple, with the aged Tung Oil finish. Looks absolutely
    amazing. I know the consensus is sending it back or taking it to a tech, but just for the
    sake of.... Would you try shaving down the R3 nut or shaving down the nut shelf on the
    neck? I've read on other message boards with this exact same problem and it seems
    about half have done the nut and half the shelf. I was hoping someone on this board
    would have some detailed experience with this exact situation.

    Thanks again for your input and suggestions. This is my first build, lots and lots of things
    to learn and bumps in the road to come, I'm sure.
    2013 EVH Black n White Striped Series Guitar
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  8. #7
    Eruption
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    Quote Originally Posted by MusicFan57 View Post
    In some post on some board, I think it was jimi had shown pics
    comparing an R3 to an R2, showing how it's not just a string spacing difference, but also
    a height difference.
    It was on this board...


    Quote Originally Posted by MusicFan57 View Post
    I may try putting the R2 on, just to see if it was cut for that on
    accident. I don't think I would mind if the nut was a teeny bit narrower than the neck.
    Try that first. I really doubt it was cut by accident. More likely, it was listed by accident.
    And remember: there was a time that Floyd Rose nuts were R2 (1 5/8ths) size only. Most of my necks are 1 3/4" with an R2 nut installed! Musikraft offers this option for 1 11/16" and 1 3/4" necks...

    Quote Originally Posted by MusicFan57 View Post
    This is the Franky, birdseye maple, with the aged Tung Oil finish. Looks absolutely
    amazing. I know the consensus is sending it back or taking it to a tech, but just for the
    sake of.... Would you try shaving down the R3 nut or shaving down the nut shelf on the
    neck?
    NO! DO NOT shave the nut! DO NOT shave the nut shelf! There is no going back if you do either one!
    And think about it: why shave down the nut when you could just install an R2?

    Quote Originally Posted by MusicFan57 View Post
    I've read on other message boards with this exact same problem and it seems
    about half have done the nut and half the shelf. I was hoping someone on this board
    would have some detailed experience with this exact situation.
    I have never had this problem with any Musikraft neck... I own 12 at last count.
    Last edited by jimi11580; 12.10.14 at 12:35 PM.
    WGAF?!!

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  10. #8
    Romeo Delight MusicFan57's Avatar
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    Try that first. I really doubt it was cut by accident. More likely, it was listed by accident.
    And remember: there was a time that Floyd Rose nuts were R2 (1 5/8ths) size only. Most of my necks are 1 3/4" with an R2 nut installed! Musikraft offers this option for 1 11/16" and 1 3/4" necks...


    NO! DO NOT shave the nut! DO NOT shave the nut shelf! There is no going back if you do either one!


    I have never had this problem with any Musikraft neck... I own 12 at last count.[/QUOTE]

    Thanks for replying jimi. I'm hoping it is cut for the R2, then I can send the R3 back where I
    ordered it from.
    You say to not shave the nut or the nut shelf.
    If the R2 doesn't work, what do you suggest doing?

    Thanks again!
    2013 EVH Black n White Striped Series Guitar
    2013 EVH 5150iii Black 50 Watt Amp
    2012 Ace Frehley Epiphone Budokan
    Marshall 1960A 4x12 Cab

  11. #9
    Eruption
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    Quote Originally Posted by MusicFan57 View Post
    Thanks for replying jimi. I'm hoping it is cut for the R2, then I can send the R3 back where I
    ordered it from.
    You say to not shave the nut or the nut shelf.
    If the R2 doesn't work, what do you suggest doing?

    Thanks again!
    Try the R2 first...
    WGAF?!!

  12. #10
    Eruption
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    And by the way, what body did you install this neck on? Did you actually string it up?
    WGAF?!!

  13. #11
    Good Enough Kevin Dodds's Avatar
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    09.15.17 @ 08:03 AM
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    Hey man, I have lots and lots of experience with this. One thing I will say is that for your very first build -- you went to the top of the mountain for parts! When I first started building, I started with absolute garbage parts and I wasn't too worried about aesthetics. I have done insane things with necks including hacksawing a truss rod that was set too high a Floyd nut. Believe it or not, once I got done with that hack job and used a few balsa wood shivs (1/32") to straighten things up, that guitar is still one of the absolute best playing ones not only that I have made, but that anyone could hope to play. And that was an absolute nightmare of a hack. But I figured it was useless to me if I couldn't fit a Floyd nut on it, so I just did what I had to do.

    The majority of necks that I buy are equipped with a standard nut -- as in no Floyd shelf whatsoever at all of any kind. So almost every neck I have used, I have had to create the shelf 100% myself using an Exacto knife, a file, and sandpaper. I've done that 6 or 7 times now.

    I was actually cracking up a bit that my Musikraft neck came with a perfect R3 shelf already -- essentially nothing for me to really do at all! It was set up perfectly and was the easiest nut ever to be installed, my 6-year-old could've done it.

    If overall the question is this: Can you shave enough off to get the shelf the absolute ideal height for the nut? The answer is absolutely yes. I would get a medium sandpaper -- #100 -- and just go back and forth a few times and keep checking the height. You just have to figure out how much you're taking off with each pass so that you don't over-sand it. Also, if you do just use sandpaper, be extra sure to make each stroke even and smooth. When I was first sanding down shelves, I found that I was inadvertently over-sanding the edges but not the middle. So the middle was the exact height but it dipped down on the ends (I just filled the space with balsa shivs). A file is a better way to ensure a perfectly even job, but they are exceptionally more harsh than sandpaper, and even if you did use a file, you'd still have to use sandpaper to smooth it out any way so that it sits as flush as humanly possible.

    If your goal is to just make a Frank replica, I would've just bought one or two Squiers from a pawn shop for $100 or less each. The bodies and necks are usually very sound, it's just that every piece of hardware and electronics has to be replaced (which most will do anyway). That way, if you do ruin a neck, it's just a lesson learned and not the destruction of a very finely crafted piece of art like Musikraft generally seems to produce.

    I assume the shelf is pre-drilled -- if so, I would lean more away from taking it to a tech, it would be sort of like taking your car to a mechanic to have gas put in. The pre-drilled nut installation is beyond simple and takes maybe 2-3 minutes.

    I will say flat out that I have ruined two bodies. One did not matter at all to me because it was ancient and made of plywood. But another was just wholly compromised at the bridge -- however, I was able to save that one, and it actually plays great now.

    I will also say that I have over-sanded shelves and have become an expert at putting balsa shivs wherever they need to go to even out the mount. The aesthetic is not great, but it's up to you how much that matters. Still though, that's a pretty damn minor aesthetic compromise -- some of them worked out so you can't really even tell unless you really give a hard look over.

    I agree putting an R2 on an R3 neck is not an issue. The difference between 42 and 43 mm is in the area of negligible difference. An R4 though is a whole other beast. My vintage Charvel Model 2 is an R4 -- it's a shred machine spaced essentially like a nylon classical guitar.

    I actually made a video of me installing a Floyd nut on a standard neck -- that may be somewhat helpful. Perhaps I'll go ahead and post it, what the hell.

    My huge caveat is if you feel even 2% discomfort with doing this yourself, don't do it. Squier necks are a dime a dozen (although harder to find one with a maple fretboard) and Musikraft is a high-end product.

    KBD3
    Last edited by Kevin Dodds; 12.10.14 at 12:59 PM.

  14. #12
    Romeo Delight MusicFan57's Avatar
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    I put it on the Musikraft Franky body. I only did the high E and lo E strings, originally just
    to make sure the strings were centered / even. Then I noticed how high the strings were
    from the first fret.
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  15. #13
    Romeo Delight MusicFan57's Avatar
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    If your goal is to just make a Frank replica, I would've just bought one or two Squiers from a pawn shop for $100 or less each. The bodies and necks are usually very sound, it's just that every piece of hardware and electronics has to be replaced (which most will do anyway). That way, if you do ruin a neck, it's just a lesson learned and not the destruction of a very finely crafted piece of art like Musikraft generally seems to produce.


    Thanks for all that insight Kevin, I really appreciate it. I'm not making a Franky replica,
    but a guitar in the spirit of the Franky. Musikraft Franky body, Musikraft Franky birdseye
    neck, Original Floyd Rose, Schaller mini tuners, and of course, the EVH Frankenstein pickup.
    At some point, if I get this all together and can get it to play at least as well as my EVH
    striped guitar, I'm going to also put in a top notch single coil in the neck, haven't decided
    which one I want yet.

    As far as shaving the nut shelf, I've seen some suggest using the nut itself with the sand
    paper, so as to make sure the shaving is perfectly even. The put screws threw the two
    holes to use as a handle on the nut. But I'm definitely going to try my R2 before
    anything else. I actually have a good feeling that might be the issue right there, as jimi
    has suggested.

    Thanks again for that insight, looking forward to your video of you installing the Floyd
    nut on a standard neck.
    2013 EVH Black n White Striped Series Guitar
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  16. #14
    Good Enough Kevin Dodds's Avatar
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    Absolutely -- if what you actually have is an R2 neck, you'll be perfectly fine. I'd just keep the R3 nut in what is sure to be a growing box of extra guitar parts!

    KBD3

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    Good Enough Kevin Dodds's Avatar
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    I just posted my DIY locking nut installation on a standard neck video in the main guitar forum. Check it out -- it might be helpful in helping you decide what to do.

    KBD3

 

 

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