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  1. #1
    Atomic Punk bsbll4's Avatar
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    12.08.17 @ 02:16 PM
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    Default Floyd Rose for 12 inch radius fretboard?

    Howdy gents. As you might have gathered from my recent BW frank build, I'm a novice when it comes to putting guitars together. I've been looking to acquire parts for the real Frank, and I've come across a seemingly great deal on a neck from Ebay that's already routed for an R2 Floyd nut. The problem is the fret board radius is 12 inches. As you probably know, most of the standard Floyd options are for 10 inches, although I've read the specs can be all over the place depending on what model and manufacturer you buy from.

    Through research I've seen that Floyd Rose's usually come with shims for the saddles (and the nut?) to compensate for this, but I've read there's a drop off in tone by using those things. I've also read a few people that just put it on there with no shims and never looked back.

    My question is, would I notice a significant difference in string height (on the middle strings) by putting the standard R2 on there? Will it suck using the shims? Or should I just say fuck it and spend another $100 for a better neck from Warmoth?

    Here's the item on ebay. It looks like this guy makes a lot of these things:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRANKY-STRAT...item3a90ab31c7
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  2. #2
    Romeo Delight
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    Default

    a 12" radius is flatter than a 10" radius. If anything you would be removing shims (which are usually under the middle saddles)

  3. #3
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    Default

    Shims dont (to me) seem to make any difference in tone-
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  4. #4
    Sinner's Swing! evhintexas's Avatar
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    I have two Fender USA EVH Wolfs. Both have shims under the R2 nut. Both guitars play well and seem to have no tone problems at all.
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  5. #5
    Atomic Punk bsbll4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Imthe1 View Post
    a 12" radius is flatter than a 10" radius. If anything you would be removing shims (which are usually under the middle saddles)
    That's interesting. I was under the impression that I was going to have to add shims to the top and bottom strings to compensate. Good to know!
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  6. #6
    Eruption AFU's Avatar
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    Default

    I've got a 10"-16" Compound radius neck from Warmoth with a Peavey Wolfgang Floyd. Didn't do anything to the Floyd. Action is actually a tad too low. No playability issues. Also have another 10"-16" neck I use with a new Original Floyd. No issues. However, I do look at bridge shims and think about trying them to match the radius.

    As far as tone. I took out the shim and put it back. Didn't hear a difference. But I was focused on setting up the guitar. Not sound.

  7. #7
    Atomic Punk bsbll4's Avatar
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    I think you guys are confirming something I was thinking originally: the difference between a 10 inch radius and 12 inch radius will be barely perceptible when the standard R2 nut is installed. At the very least, the shims would erase that altogether and not have any effect on the tone.

    Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it!
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  8. #8
    Forum Frontman Double Down's Avatar
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    I have two Floyd guitars with 12" radius and R2 nut. Zero issues.
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  9. #9
    Atomic Punk fast98dodge's Avatar
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    Schaller built FR's are 12" radius...

    http://guitar-parts.biz/hp135038/Schaller-Tremolo.htm
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  10. #10
    Atomic Punk bsbll4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fast98dodge View Post
    Schaller built FR's are 12" radius...

    http://guitar-parts.biz/hp135038/Schaller-Tremolo.htm
    Thanks for the link!
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  11. #11
    Atomic Punk fast98dodge's Avatar
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    The nut is 10" on the R2 and the trem itself 12". You shouldn't have any issues.
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  12. #12
    Sinner's Swing!
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AFU View Post
    I've got a 10"-16" Compound radius neck from Warmoth with a Peavey Wolfgang Floyd. Didn't do anything to the Floyd. Action is actually a tad too low. No playability issues. Also have another 10"-16" neck I use with a new Original Floyd. No issues. However, I do look at bridge shims and think about trying them to match the radius.

    As far as tone. I took out the shim and put it back. Didn't hear a difference. But I was focused on setting up the guitar. Not sound.
    You won't lose tone with the shims. Honestly, the material they are, (usually metal) and with them mounted and compressed into full contact with the mating surfaces, it'd be undetectable.
    Yeah...I've got an old compound radius Warmoth neck too, and an original 84 or 85 Floyd that I had on a few guitar incarnations...Strat style, Explorer shape, and most recently, a smaller scaled down Strat type body I scratch built years ago. I never really had any issues at all with buzz or very obvious action differences from string to string. I'm not super picky about action as long as it's not extremely high, or low. I never shimmed the Floyd's saddles with that neck.
    As far as it being a flatter 12" radius than 10"...It's not that huge a difference given that if you actually visually were to view that small segment of the full radius. Don't get me wrong...it' is detectable for sure under your fingers, but you know...it might actually be to your liking, and also your trussrod adjustment, and current neck relief are key before you start adding or removing shims. Make sure it's decent, or you'll be chasing your settings and intonation back and forth, which can be a pain on a Floyd if you're not to familiar with knowing how to set 'em up quickly.

    An example for trying it before shimming, (and no exact measurements here) for my own personal Strat, I have never set the saddles, or neck relief to the recommended factory specs.I always set it to what feels right under my fingers, and gave me the type of audible interaction between the strings and frets that seems to go hand in hand with Strats...Some of that mechanical noise is what makes it feel kinda loose and vintage somehow, if that makes any sense.

    Now on a clients guitar, I'd always start with spec measurements, and releif, and take it from there, and tweak it to their personal preference.
    For whatever reason, I actually like the action a little lower on the high E, and B string. My G is usually just a hair above the B, and my D, and A, are bang on in height to each other, and low E saddle is actually just a hair below the A, so the top of the string is almost perfectly level to the A.
    I know...a weird setup, but I tell you, you play it and it feels amazing. It's a fairly tight radius neck, so it helped it feel a little more fast as well. Much better than the stock '68 suggested string radius settings.

 

 

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