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  1. #1
    Hot For Teacher EVH-NYC's Avatar
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    02.14.14 @ 04:24 PM
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    Default Weber MiniMass 25w in a 5150 head!

    I know I should have bought the Attenuator with more wattage! at least the 125w one, but there is anyway this could work? I live in an apartment and I cant dial the lead post gain to 0.75!! it doesn't sound bad, but I want something more.. the reason I got this 5150 is that I got it for $300 with an Ampeg 4/12 with celestions G12.. CHEAP!

    let me know what I can do, like lowering the wattage on the head, or just to test drive it when I receive the attenuator.. thanks!

  2. #2
    5150 GilmourD's Avatar
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    12.15.17 @ 05:56 AM
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    Quote Originally Posted by EVH-NYC View Post
    I know I should have bought the Attenuator with more wattage! at least the 125w one, but there is anyway this could work? I live in an apartment and I cant dial the lead post gain to 0.75!! it doesn't sound bad, but I want something more.. the reason I got this 5150 is that I got it for $300 with an Ampeg 4/12 with celestions G12.. CHEAP!

    let me know what I can do, like lowering the wattage on the head, or just to test drive it when I receive the attenuator.. thanks!
    Wait... You got the 25W version of this?

    https://taweber.powweb.com/weber/mass.htm

    You should get this if you've got a standard Peavey 5150 (120W RMS), which would still work fine for a 5150-III at 100W.

    https://taweber.powweb.com/weber/mass150.htm

  3. #3
    Hot For Teacher EVH-NYC's Avatar
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    Yeah in gonna have to sell it!! Got it from the bay, and then i readed about the wattage..

    Quote Originally Posted by GilmourD View Post
    Wait... You got the 25W version of this?

    https://taweber.powweb.com/weber/mass.htm

    You should get this if you've got a standard Peavey 5150 (120W RMS), which would still work fine for a 5150-III at 100W.

    https://taweber.powweb.com/weber/mass150.htm

  4. #4
    On Fire Bluto's Avatar
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    06.23.15 @ 06:07 PM
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    I've looked at some of these Weber attenuators on the net before, but how do they work? Do they just lower the volume of the amp so you can crank it for the good tube sound?

  5. #5
    Good Enough
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    10.26.16 @ 03:37 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by EVH-NYC View Post
    I know I should have bought the Attenuator with more wattage! at least the 125w one, but there is anyway this could work? I live in an apartment and I cant dial the lead post gain to 0.75!! it doesn't sound bad, but I want something more.. the reason I got this 5150 is that I got it for $300 with an Ampeg 4/12 with celestions G12.. CHEAP!

    let me know what I can do, like lowering the wattage on the head, or just to test drive it when I receive the attenuator.. thanks!
    I've used Weber products for a long time and have used an attenuator from them extensively (not sure if they make that particular model anymore). I recommend 150+ Watt attenuators for 100W 5150 amps. And that's cutting it close.

    Ideally, you want an attenuator that is rated for DOUBLE the wattage of your amp. They turn volume into heat, essentially, so you don't wanna over-burden a 100W attenuator with 100+ watts of actual output or whatever the amp is putting out (the 5150 is likely lower-ish, but go with me here conceptually).

    For your situation where near-full attenuation is required, definitely go with a 150W or higher rated Weber Attenuator. In my experience, they sound great and are quite usable. No, it won't give you cranked amp tone exactly (nothing will except actually cranking the amp to get the speakers really pushing air) but it does interact well with the amp because of the unique Weber dummy speaker design -- and that will get you fairly close at low volumes, or at least give you a nice usable tone.

    Also, Weber's customer service is particularly awesome if you ever need it...

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrjstudios View Post
    I've used Weber products for a long time and have used an attenuator from them extensively (not sure if they make that particular model anymore). I recommend 150+ Watt attenuators for 100W 5150 amps. And that's cutting it close.

    Ideally, you want an attenuator that is rated for DOUBLE the wattage of your amp. They turn volume into heat, essentially, so you don't wanna over-burden a 100W attenuator with 100+ watts of actual output or whatever the amp is putting out (the 5150 is likely lower-ish, but go with me here conceptually).

    For your situation where near-full attenuation is required, definitely go with a 150W or higher rated Weber Attenuator. In my experience, they sound great and are quite usable. No, it won't give you cranked amp tone exactly (nothing will except actually cranking the amp to get the speakers really pushing air) but it does interact well with the amp because of the unique Weber dummy speaker design -- and that will get you fairly close at low volumes, or at least give you a nice usable tone.

    Also, Weber's customer service is particularly awesome if you ever need it...


    Agreed, it's better to be safe and go with the 150 watt Weber. But I've been using the 100 watt model for years now with my 5150 head and I've never had a problem. The unit gets pretty warm but not what I would call hot, I can put my hand on it. I don't put my post past 6 though so I'm not diming the amp...I don't think 5150s sound good dimed. I don't use it to attenuate though, I take a line off the Weber and run it into a solid state power amp and out to my cab. I can get very low volumes this way and it still sounds killer...I don't know if this makes any difference to the way the unit interacts with the head, maybe using it to attenuate generates more heat? I don't know, I'm not much of a techie. This method works great though and I play my 5150 head at home all the time without blowing out the windows.

 

 

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