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  1. #1
    Eruption Steven B's Avatar
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    12.17.17 @ 10:09 AM
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    Default Oil for unfinished maple neck?

    I've had an old bottle of neck lube for about 20 years that finally ran out.
    Problem is, I don't think the stuff exists anymore, so when I went shopping for a new product, I just got a bit confused..

    I did some searching in the Guitar Room and the results say Tung oil or even guns stock oil? Is this still the consensus? Is there a commercially made product?

    By the way, when shopping I've notice that anything lemon oil, is a NO NO for an unfinished maple neck. True?


    Thanks guys

  2. #2
    Baluchitherium
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    04.02.15 @ 07:26 AM
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    That is the general consensus, yes.
    But, I was told by a guy from the Washburn Custom Shop that they use a mixture of Beeswax and Lemon Oil on their unfinished necks, I have been using that mixture for years without and ill effects.
    http://www.facebook.com/Tommywho5150

    And with that I'm off to the kitchen to make myself a lesbian omelette...LLFHS in response to one of Graeme's post's


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  3. #3
    Good Enough
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    I would recommend NOT using Tung oil, especially on a neck. It always seems to stay gooey and is awful to work with. Gunstock oil is much nicer, and probably similar to the stuff you used to use. I've heard of many people using the lemon oil combo for years with no problems.

  4. #4
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    11.25.17 @ 09:06 AM
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrjstudios View Post
    I would recommend NOT using Tung oil, especially on a neck. It always seems to stay gooey and is awful to work with. Gunstock oil is much nicer, and probably similar to the stuff you used to use. I've heard of many people using the lemon oil combo for years with no problems.
    Tung oil is not fantastic. Like MRJ says, it tends to always feel tacky.
    Gunstock oil/beeswax is what was on the EBMM's. Another good oil that seals well and is very long lasting is boiled linseed oil. You buy it boiled, so don't worry! lol
    It's great stuff and is used by many luthiers on rosewood, spruce, and maple alike for it's ability to block humidity yet it does not soak in too deep or swell the wood like some oils can causing fretboard irregularities.
    It should be the boiled stuff though, otherwise it'll go on as tacky as tung.
    Just apply it conservatively to a cotton cloth, and apply in a series of light coats rubbing it out to the point where it seems like there's none left. Then let it sit about twenty minutes to an hour and do it again.
    You should be able to get away with three coats, then it's just maintenance every three to 6 months depending on how your guitar is stored, and how much you play and clean your neck.
    Plain Lemon oil is the old standby....Iv'e used it for decades, but lately it's fallen out of favor. I don't know all the details as to why, but heard one rumor that it's been proven to cause some issue with the fret slots over time.

    Why this is just coming out now, I don't know, but it could be something to do with adhesives that are used today which are more EPA friendly(god bless 'em....They are always looking out for us paintchip, and paste eaters!), and maybe the natural acids in the lemon oil could be breaking them down and causing popped frets.
    If you do use lemon oil, then as Tommy mentioned, it should be cut with beeswax. This stops the migratory nature of the very thin lemon oil.
    Last edited by we die young; 12.23.11 at 12:08 PM.

  5. #5
    Eruption
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    Quote Originally Posted by we die young View Post
    Tung oil is not fantastic. Like MRJ says, it tends to always feel tacky.
    Gunstock oil/beeswax is what was on the EBMM's. Another good oil that seals well and is very long lasting is boiled linseed oil. You buy it boiled, so don't worry! lol
    It's great stuff and is used by many luthiers on rosewood, spruce, and maple alike for it's ability to block humidity yet it does not soak in too deep or swell the wood like some oils can causing fretboard irregularities.
    It should be the boiled stuff though, otherwise it'll go on as tacky as tung.
    Just apply it conservatively to a cotton cloth, and apply in a series of light coats rubbing it out to the point where it seems like there's none left. Then let it sit about twenty minutes to an hour and do it again.
    You should be able to get away with three coats, then it's just maintenance every three to 6 months depending on how your guitar is stored, and how much you play and clean your neck.
    Plain Lemon oil is the old standby....Iv'e used it for decades, but lately it's fallen out of favor. I don't know all the details as to why, but heard one rumor that it's been proven to cause some issue with the fret slots over time.

    Why this is just coming out now, I don't know, but it could be something to do with adhesives that are used today which are more EPA friendly(god bless 'em....They are always looking out for us paintchip, and paste eaters!), and maybe the natural acids in the lemon oil could be breaking them down and causing popped frets.
    If you do use lemon oil, then as Tommy mentioned, it should be cut with beeswax. This stops the migratory nature of the very thin lemon oil.
    I'm pretty sure that EBMM used Birchwood Casey tru oil. Not 100% sure with Peavey but if memory serves correct, it was the same.

  6. #6
    Baluchitherium
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    04.02.15 @ 07:26 AM
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    Quote Originally Posted by we die young View Post
    Tung oil is not fantastic. Like MRJ says, it tends to always feel tacky.
    Gunstock oil/beeswax is what was on the EBMM's. Another good oil that seals well and is very long lasting is boiled linseed oil. You buy it boiled, so don't worry! lol
    It's great stuff and is used by many luthiers on rosewood, spruce, and maple alike for it's ability to block humidity yet it does not soak in too deep or swell the wood like some oils can causing fretboard irregularities.
    It should be the boiled stuff though, otherwise it'll go on as tacky as tung.
    Just apply it conservatively to a cotton cloth, and apply in a series of light coats rubbing it out to the point where it seems like there's none left. Then let it sit about twenty minutes to an hour and do it again.
    You should be able to get away with three coats, then it's just maintenance every three to 6 months depending on how your guitar is stored, and how much you play and clean your neck.
    Plain Lemon oil is the old standby....Iv'e used it for decades, but lately it's fallen out of favor. I don't know all the details as to why, but heard one rumor that it's been proven to cause some issue with the fret slots over time.

    Why this is just coming out now, I don't know, but it could be something to do with adhesives that are used today which are more EPA friendly(god bless 'em....They are always looking out for us paintchip, and paste eaters!), and maybe the natural acids in the lemon oil could be breaking them down and causing popped frets.
    If you do use lemon oil, then as Tommy mentioned, it should be cut with beeswax. This stops the migratory nature of the very thin lemon oil.
    Also worth mentioning, Read the safety warnings with Linseed Oil. It can sponentiously combust if you do not disposed of it correctly.

    Be careful with the handling and disposal of the rags used to apply linseed oil. The oil itself is not a problem, however the solvents used to thin the linseed oil are highly flammable and combustible. Allow rags to thoroughly dry on a non-flammable surface (such as a concrete block), or washed, or soaked with water before placing in the garbage. Solvents can generate heat through an exothermic reaction with the air (oxidation), and this reaction accelerates as the rags get hotter, and this has been known to start unintended fires.
    http://www.woodworkdetails.com/Knowl...nseed-Oil.aspx
    http://www.facebook.com/Tommywho5150

    And with that I'm off to the kitchen to make myself a lesbian omelette...LLFHS in response to one of Graeme's post's


    "The anal beads may have scarred SNIC for life. That guy is tough as fucking nails!! No normal guy could take anal beads to the head and survive! "...OLO on SNIC's near death experience at TLW

    "I'm a 45-year-old man, and I still like to wear a thong or a speedo when I go swimming.
    Not because I have a great body, it's just an easy way to make sure I have the hotel swimming pool all to myself."...Bullwinkle for quite obvious reasons!

    "Dude, the cashier gave me the creepiest sneer when he rang up my unmentionables!"...Sassy Lassy during a Facebook conversation!

  7. #7
    Baluchitherium Ted Van Halen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommywho5150 View Post
    Also worth mentioning, Read the safety warnings with Linseed Oil. It can sponentiously combust if you do not disposed of it correctly.



    http://www.woodworkdetails.com/Knowl...nseed-Oil.aspx
    I'd be tempted to try getting it to spontaneously combust just cause.


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  8. #8
    Eruption Steven B's Avatar
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    12.17.17 @ 10:09 AM
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    Son of a !

    I'm just as confused, and now I'm gonna spontaneously combust like Spinal Tap's drummer! I'll look for the Birchwood casey tru oil, I guess.

    I would think there would be a product sold right in a music store developed exactly for it?
    Last edited by Steven B; 12.23.11 at 02:22 PM. Reason: I suck at Grammarrr!

  9. #9
    Atomic Punk fast98dodge's Avatar
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    08.07.17 @ 08:14 PM
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    No kidding...

    I have used Holloway House Lemon Oil and it seems to work fine. I always use Murphy's Oil Soap first to clean it and let it dry before using the Lemon Oil...

    I think the Birchwood stuff sounds like it would great...
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAD-1972 View Post
    I'm pretty sure that EBMM used Birchwood Casey tru oil. Not 100% sure with Peavey but if memory serves correct, it was the same.
    Hmmmm...You might be right. I have an interview from Guitar Shop (remember that mag?) with both sterling and Ed, and they said gunstock oil, but that could have been misinterpreted by the interviewer.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommywho5150 View Post
    Also worth mentioning, Read the safety warnings with Linseed Oil. It can sponentiously combust if you do not disposed of it correctly.



    http://www.woodworkdetails.com/Knowl...nseed-Oil.aspx
    Oh sure! Thanks Tommy. Good point...The boiled stuff is supposed to be less volatile, but it's always a good consideration.
    Last edited by we die young; 12.23.11 at 04:04 PM.

  12. #12
    Eruption
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    Quote Originally Posted by we die young View Post
    Hmmmm...You might be right. I have an interview from Guitar Shop (remember that mag?) with both sterling and Ed, and they said gunstock oil, but that could have been misinterpreted by the interviewer.
    No, you're right. It's Birchwood Casey - Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish
    http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAD-1972 View Post
    No, you're right. It's Birchwood Casey - Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish
    http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/
    Oh, ok! haha. I had used Finnigan's Gunstock oil when I first stripped my old Kramer Beakhead. I learned about the boiled linseed from lee Valley Tools when I couldn't find the Finnigan's any more. a guy who worked there was a guitar builder too, and he was saying it would work every bit as well, and it has.

  14. #14
    Eruption
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    Quote Originally Posted by we die young View Post
    Oh, ok! haha. I had used Finnigan's Gunstock oil when I first stripped my old Kramer Beakhead. I learned about the boiled linseed from lee Valley Tools when I couldn't find the Finnigan's any more. a guy who worked there was a guitar builder too, and he was saying it would work every bit as well, and it has.
    In all honesty, I think BC Tru-oil is really just another "special recipe" form of boiled linseed oil (same consistency and amber color Ė different smell) used in combination with a wax top coat as a finish. My father used boiled linseed oil cut with turpentine for fine art oil painting and also used it as a finish on wood sculptures with a light wax topcoat - awesome on walnut!

    The few times I used tru-oil on a neck, I used very light coats and it feels very similar to the finish on my EVH Wolfgang Special. I've found that if it starts building up (you can tell by ridge lines), you've applied too much!

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    For the guitars I've built and when I've "refinished" Wolfgang necks I've always used Tru-Oil. One thorough coat; let dry for 24 hours; smooth over the entire neck with medium-fine steel wool. Then I do a coat of beeswax followed by a coat of lemon oil. This is basically the same procedure EB and Peavey used for their respective EVH models. At string changes I clean the neck with Murphy's Oil Soap and a soft brush and follow that with a coat of lemon oil. My oil-finished necks have stayed clean and in great shape for years by simply doing the above.

 

 

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