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Thread: Paint ??

  1. #1
    Little Dreamer vanden's Avatar
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    03.27.11 @ 12:12 PM
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    Default Paint ??

    I read in some other forums about people using minwax sand and sealer. Did anyone here use this? I'm a little unsure about the process here. The body im working with is a warmoth 1 piece swamp ash body. Does the steps below sound right. I want a relic'd look at the end than maybe hit it with a thin coat of clear after the relic. So i do want it somewhat smooth but not extremly smooth like a factory finish.


    1. The way i was thinking when the body arrives, was hitting it with the 200 grit.
    2. Than the minwax sand and sealer until the body is the way i want it.
    3. Sanding it again.
    4. prime it once, light sand, than start the coats.

    This sound ok? or am i off base here, also do i need to wet sand between coats?
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    It's Minwax sanding sealer. A lot of folks recommend it with very good results. I usually use a nitro compatible sanding sealer in spray form, but I've heard nothing negative with the Minwax stuff.
    Depending on the body and what is done prior to shipping, like is it grain filled, (which is a whole other ball of wax) when you get it, you should be able to avoid too much sanding. Usually just a fine grit...for instance I use 400 on finished bodies with a sponge block just to give it some tooth and remove contaminants or finger prints, then tack cloth it, then hit it with sanding sealer, then sand, tack cloth, apply another coat, repeat till it's where I want it. For a VH relic assuming that's what you're doing, I don't know if priming is that key as if you relic you'll most likely see the primer and that could detract from the effect you're after. Most sealers are transparent and compatible with acrylics these days, and work like a primer anyhow.
    From that point on I think you're on the right track. Sanding in between clear coats is usually recommended to stay on top of orange peel, but if you're using an acrylic lacquer or even a nitro, (both paints that contains acetone) remember these are evaporative finishes, meaning that each coat you place on top of another reactivate the previous one, and flow out fairly thin, and any imperfections tend to show up on the fresh coat, and all you'll do is chase it. Shouldn't be an issue giving you're starting fresh, but too many people think of paint as a cover up tool as well as a color.
    With acrylic lacquers It's not so easy,(Old Krylon excepted) so if something goes wrong during an application of paint, let it dry and fix it, then move forward.

  3. #3
    Little Dreamer vanden's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply, being that im after a somewhat relic look, ill just get a can of minwax s/s, apply it, sand it and forget the primer.

    After the red is applied at the end, and its all pealed and reliced...you think its wise to hit it with a thin clear coat to protect it and give it a tad bit of a shine?

    Edit:

    The paint im using is Duplicolor Super Red ll, Olympic White, Not sure on the black yet. It's a Warmoth body, swamp ash.
    Last edited by vanden; 03.08.11 at 12:49 PM. Reason: add details
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    Quote Originally Posted by vanden View Post
    Thanks for the reply, being that im after a somewhat relic look, ill just get a can of minwax s/s, apply it, sand it and forget the primer.

    After the red is applied at the end, and its all pealed and reliced...you think its wise to hit it with a thin clear coat to protect it and give it a tad bit of a shine?

    Edit:

    The paint im using is Duplicolor Super Red ll, Olympic White, Not sure on the black yet. It's a Warmoth body, swamp ash.
    I don't see why not. Just a little advice with the clear when using Duplicolor. Give your base coats a good long cure. I'm talking a min. of 15 to 30 days. This can change depending on climate and consistent temps. but the clears on rattle bombs tend to be a little thicker but dry quite a bit quicker than a lot of of colors. What can result is the clear can actually keep the finish gummy. This was a regular complaint with Krylon. The key with the whole paint job is not to rush. Follow the instructions to the letter, and allow ample cure between all coats. Then you'll be much happier in the end.
    I know Ed painted alot of his guitars in very short order, but times have changed, and many of the ingredients that allowed for the quickness in which he painted are banned and not used, or at least readily available in consumer paints .
    hell...I remember a time when you could go to your local hardware store, and pick up a can of lacquer, paint something up, and it was FULLY cured in 72 hrs. Plus you got a cheap high to boot!!!!!! WINNING!

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    this is the 2nd thread you've opened about paint this week, despite being informed of the many other threads, with all this information in them...use the search function!
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    Little Dreamer vanden's Avatar
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    whats up all, got my body and have a quick question. I just got finished putting 3 coats of Timbermate filler on this and sanding it with 320 to 400. Question, do you recommend putting minwax sanding sealer over the timbermate or the spray can Deft s/s? I see Loews has both. O, also i didn't read the duplicolor rattle cans, but do i need a primer with it or can i just go straight to black after the s/s?,

    Thanks,

    Van
    "Live Everyday Like It's Your Last"

 

 

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