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  1. #1
    Hot For Teacher
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    Default EVH Frankenstein Build

    Yeah, I know, ANOTHER ONE? But I really want you guys here to help me out. I've finally sold the one I was trying to sell, and after thinking about it... I need a really good one! So I'm shooting for something like the fenders... like this in particular..


    I've been in talks with Divebomb since... well a long time.. Months ago really. I finally spent the money recently for the parts to be made. While I'm waiting, I also have a thread up at halen, but since you guys seem much more into posting and are pretty dam knowledgeable, I thought I'd might post here too. I apologize for starting my second thread already for being such a new comer to this site. This is my fourth Frank.

    I'll tell you guys the game plan... I'm going to be getting a 1:1 scale print out of the body of a Fender from a good guy. Once that's here I'll be using Clear Frisk it film to literally copy the stripes right from the print out and apply it to the guitar.. Once black is sprayed, I will spray clear, then white, then water based oak stain to give it the yellow appearance, more clear, Super Red II, then more clear after all relicing is done. As seen in the interview, the guitar has a nice shine to it. I actually had a friend of mine that has the fender post a segment of the DVD that Fender didn't post....


    OK, that's really it for the body... Now the neck is what I'm most concerned about. It's something in my opinion, never get it "quite right". I've heard Graphite, I've hear gun stock oil or tru oil for the back. That's really what I'm going to go to. Hopefully a mixture of black and brown shoe polish gives it a nice brownish look and I will add the details with graphite. Let me know what you guys think..

    If this isn't allowed over here, let me know and remove this. Thanks a lot guys!

    Nick

  2. #2
    5150 bunnyman's Avatar
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    From what I unerstand, an oil on the neck would not be authentic, as Ed never uses finish on his necks. That being said, Tru Oil is probably your best bet for a finish.

    I use a mixture of graphite and a yellowish brownish minwax stain mixed with water under the Tru Oil. I have used Watco Danish oil alternatively. Yes, there's no sample of my work immediately available. There is a pic of the Jamie guitar on this forum somewhere. I think my method is decent. I basically put my stain on paper towel, wipe on, then quickly wipe off, rubbing it in whilst removing it. I also typically kiss the neck with 300 grit paper to get that "ground in" look. I NEVER want it to look like I wear gloves soaked in dirty motor oil whilst playing.

    The question is this: at what stage "relic" do you want? After all, the neck grunge can really vary over the time period. Many of us on the board (including many who build these) feel the Fender isn't all that good, especially for the OTT price!!!!

    And if you're going to keep this one, you could always relic it the old fashioned way- play it. An unfinished maple neck will look pretty grungy without much help if you play it!!!
    Dammit!!! I still smell like cotton candy!!!

  3. #3
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    I know he doesn't but from the Fender it appears to be shinny.
    Good idea on the stain, I'll try that.

    What I want really is a copy of the Fender with origins of the real one. Right reflectors, relic spots.. the usual.

    I don't mind it wearing in naturally but I want the replica.

    Also anyone know where I can get a couple Anvil or Anvil style cases? I want to use one for the Frank and for my Play Loud. Thanks
    Last edited by mrbond5150; 07.17.10 at 08:52 AM.

  4. #4
    5150 bunnyman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbond5150 View Post

    Also anyone know where I can get a couple Anvil or Anvil style cases? I want to use one for the Frank and for my Play Loud. Thanks
    Anvil cases are not cheap, even used. Check ebay; however, most people keep theirs...

    I will say that over many, many years of use, bare wood will become shiny by just hands rubbing and touching it. Your dead skin an oils will "seal" the wood (eeeew!!!) and make it shiny. Just look at the good luck stump (what performers rub their hands on before performing) at the Apollo Theatre- very shiny, and it was literally just a chopped off tree stump!!!

    What I would try to do is to lightly stain, tru-oil over (just like one very thin coat), kiss it with sand paper, stain over, sand it again, and repeat process. Hit the areas stained the most, but make certain every area of the neck gets stain. Replicating that kind of wear takes a fair bit of time (just not twenty five years of time). But you will basically get that "shiny with use" look and seal your wood at the same time. Again- you don't want it to look like you're wearing steel wool gloves soaked in used 30w motor oil.
    Dammit!!! I still smell like cotton candy!!!

  5. #5
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    Is there like an anvil clone case out there?

    I'll try that order. Also I have to figure out how to get that gray tint to it and the heavy gray marks on the front of the fretboard.

  6. #6
    Eruption
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    12.17.17 @ 09:19 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbond5150 View Post
    Is there like an anvil clone case out there?
    I'm not sure how accurate this would be but someone at Halen.com used or was going to use a Rondo case. It's out-of-stock but the price is right:

    http://www.rondomusic.com/ec4100bk.html

  7. #7
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    Looks good. I saw it too over there, might have to purchase some. Thanks for posting!

  8. #8
    Eruption
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrbond5150 View Post
    Looks good. I saw it too over there, might have to purchase some. Thanks for posting!
    I think this is the same Warwick Rockcase in that Halen thread:
    http://www.9mileguitar.com/product.s...categoryId=119

    It's on sale - $150 & in stock according to the website.

  9. #9
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    The ones from the first site are apparently sold out... the others, I can't see.. LOL

  10. #10
    Hot For Teacher ME100472's Avatar
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    When I looked into an anvil case...it was about $400. I think the site was cases2go.com but I can't remember for sure. You can customize it to your specs. Eventually I'm getting one for my replica, I figured I've pulled no stops on the parts so far so why cut short on the case? But my replica is only in the b/w stage so far, and I'm taking my sweet ass time with it. I'll tell you one thing, depending on how much time you're going to spend aging the b/w, you may want to reconsider the stain...mine is dirty and yellowed simply from scraping, sanding and handling.
    "Boards don't hit back" - Bruce Lee

  11. #11
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    body has arrived...


    Thanks KYLE!
    Trying to get other parts coming in soon.
    Last edited by mrbond5150; 09.21.10 at 06:40 PM.

 

 

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