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  1. #1
    Romeo Delight
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    Default Few questions on building a Frankie

    Hey All,

    I just ordered KnE Frank Body and I am getting ready to start my first Frankie build. I am super stoked and plan to really take my time to make it as accurate as possible. I know going in, that as soon as I am done, I will want to re-do the project because I will have learned so much through the process.

    I have researched the project over the past few weeks (on various forum linked to this one) but still have a few questions.

    1 - I am about to order the Frankie Neck from Musikcraft. What is the recommended finish? They want to ship it with Shellac Sealer. Does anyone have any experience with this? If I get it sent unfinished it will not have a warranty from the manufacture. They have a Tung Oil option?

    2 - What are the exact widths of the tape for stripping?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Hot For Teacher ME100472's Avatar
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    02.14.14 @ 07:11 AM
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    On my son's factory finish Frank, I used a K&E body, Musikraft neck. At the time, they didn't offer the shellac. I got it untreated, used some gunstock oil & wax.

    Stripes on black & white...3/4 inch electrical tape is good

    For red...1/4 inch, 1/2 inch, 1 inch

    Have fun, take your time, good luck!
    "Boards don't hit back" - Bruce Lee

  3. #3
    Romeo Delight
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    Thanks ME100472,

    I would love to see a pic of the build you did for your son.

    I have looked around at the local Canadian Tire (I'm Canadian Eh!) and was unable to find the 1/2 inch tape. I know I can order online as I have seen in other posts.

    As for the Musikraft neck, I am seriously considering their "Aged Oil" option. The pics on their site look great and I figure I can relic the neck further if needed when it comes in.

  4. #4
    Top Of The World YMI5150?'s Avatar
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    12.15.13 @ 04:45 PM
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    lots to research. have fun doing it! its a lot of work so take your time.

    I've always gone with unfinished necks. if there's a gross defect, Musikraft will take care of you.

    I'd suggest getting a cheap set of calipers to measure stripe widths, get a 2" roll of auto tape, and a straight edge. cut each piece to the appropriate width. they're all a bit different, I speculate due to him pulling and stretching the tape.

    here's a shot of my last build for your reference. lots to refer to over at halen dot com too.





    cheers

  5. #5
    Hot For Teacher ME100472's Avatar
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    Here's a pic of my son's before assembly. Don't use the stripes on this one as a guideline...lol. It was my 1st attempt, luckily it turned out beautiful finish-wise. We even buffed the '71 quarter to make it look brand new.



    Here's the second one...relic job. I really liked how this one turned out, but it was based off images of a replica on the EVH gear website. I'm after the look of the real deal now. (Slowly but surely working on 2 bodies, one with automotive paint, one with rattle cans. Choosing the better of the 2 upon completion.) I sold this one to a co-worker.







    I need to get neck aging advice from YMI5150?...lol.

    Both of these are KnE bodies with Musikraft necks, but it was before the updated body KnE now offers, and, before Musikraft offered a Franky neck. The neck on my son's has a Strat heel...oops. The 2nd neck has a Tele heel, but still probably isn't as accurate as the newer one they offer. Like I said have fun, you'll learn alot from this forum like I did.
    "Boards don't hit back" - Bruce Lee

  6. #6
    Eruption
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    Quote Originally Posted by ME100472 View Post
    Here's a pic of my son's before assembly. Don't use the stripes on this one as a guideline...lol. It was my 1st attempt, luckily it turned out beautiful finish-wise. We even buffed the '71 quarter to make it look brand new.

    Regardless if the stripes are perfect or not it looks awesome - this paint job has the definite high gloss of a base coat/clear coat finish. Just wondering how you approached the stripes and the timeline before clearing? I actually shot a thin coat of clear between colors. Some exceed the manufacture guidelines for clearing in a 24-48 hr. period and paint all of the colors and followed by clear over several days. Just wondering.

  7. #7
    Hot For Teacher ME100472's Avatar
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    It was done at a close friend of mine's body shop. After the black & white, it was cleared & wet sanded. Then cleared & wet sanded and buffed after the red. It turned out super slick as you can see. We used PPG automotive paint.
    "Boards don't hit back" - Bruce Lee

  8. #8
    Eruption
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    Quote Originally Posted by ME100472 View Post
    It was done at a close friend of mine's body shop. After the black & white, it was cleared & wet sanded. Then cleared & wet sanded and buffed after the red. It turned out super slick as you can see. We used PPG automotive paint.
    After you spray the clear, even with all of the orange peel, dirt, etc., it's a shame you have to wet sand - that clear makes the paint glow like crazy!!

    I always laugh when I view those pics of ED taping those Charvel Art Series guitars. You can still see the gloss/peel in most of those pics. Wonder if they have any paint peeling issues? http://www.evh-guitars.com/gallery2.html

    GREAT job on your projects!

  9. #9
    Hot For Teacher ME100472's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAD-1972 View Post
    After you spray the clear, even with all of the orange peel, dirt, etc., it's a shame you have to wet sand - that clear makes the paint glow like crazy!!

    I always laugh when I view those pics of ED taping those Charvel Art Series guitars. You can still see the gloss/peel in most of those pics. Wonder if they have any paint peeling issues? http://www.evh-guitars.com/gallery2.html

    GREAT job on your projects!
    Thank you! Yeah, the wet sanding was done more to take the "steps" or raised feeling out of the stripe work and make the guitar have that smooth finish. I think if you have a guy that's good with a buffer, you can have that same "glow" after wet sanding and buffing.
    "Boards don't hit back" - Bruce Lee

  10. #10
    Eruption
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    Quote Originally Posted by ME100472 View Post
    Thank you! Yeah, the wet sanding was done more to take the "steps" or raised feeling out of the stripe work and make the guitar have that smooth finish. I think if you have a guy that's good with a buffer, you can have that same "glow" after wet sanding and buffing.
    Right after you spray your poly, the object has this glazed ham look. Even after it's dry you swear it's wet!

    I agree...a well buffed paint job looks just as shiny - it's just a lot of work to make it flat and scratch-free! -HA

  11. #11
    Romeo Delight
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    Hey Guys,

    Thanks for the posts and advice.

    I ordered the neck from Musikraft last night and took YMI5150's advice, got it unfinished. I've been doing a lot of researching on Halen.com, and will likely finish it with Gunstock Oil after I relic it.

    Seeing the results of some your projects, blows me away on how good they turned out.

    I am so pumped...

 

 

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