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  1. #1
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    01.26.13 @ 09:47 AM
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    Default first paint job questions

    i just got a ship notification from warmoth, my new body is shipping. im going to be doing a striped pattern. looking for suggestions on paint, i was probably going to use reranch. wondering if thats a good choice. im assuming i only need 1 can of each color and 1 can of primer, would that be correct? lastly how many coats? i will be having it clear coated at a body shop.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ANTHONY5150 View Post
    i just got a ship notification from warmoth, my new body is shipping. im going to be doing a striped pattern. looking for suggestions on paint, i was probably going to use reranch. wondering if thats a good choice. im assuming i only need 1 can of each color and 1 can of primer, would that be correct? lastly how many coats? i will be having it clear coated at a body shop.
    Reranch is excellent, just takes a lot longuer to cure then a regular spraycan, so don't be in a hurry. The primer, that depend on wood i guess. Warmoth usually send out his bodies already sealed no?. are you doing a Factory finish or Relic?.

    One can of each is usually enough yes. as for clear coat.make sure it's compatible with the reranch stuff.

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    I would say then to use car stuff if you're going to have a car respray specialist clear the body.

    ReRanch is great, great stuff; but it is in the tradition of old-school, traditional finishes (nitrocellulouse, like Gibson uses and Fender used to use). You can get great results at home with this stuff if you follow the directions and are really, really patient.
    Dammit!!! I still smell like cotton candy!!!

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    well im glad i asked, i thought i would get reranch in a rattle can , my bad. i dont have anything written in stone as of yet, so since i dont have a spray gun, what kind of paint would you suggest that comes in a can? i can have the body shop do the whole thing but it would be a pain since i would have to bring it there 4 times in between stripings. i was going to inquire about having it done in nitro for the clear. since this is my first one, its not gonna be a relic finish, im looking for a shiney wet look. the body from warmoth will be bare when it arrives.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ANTHONY5150 View Post
    well im glad i asked, i thought i would get reranch in a rattle can , my bad. i dont have anything written in stone as of yet, so since i dont have a spray gun, what kind of paint would you suggest that comes in a can? i can have the body shop do the whole thing but it would be a pain since i would have to bring it there 4 times in between stripings. i was going to inquire about having it done in nitro for the clear. since this is my first one, its not gonna be a relic finish, im looking for a shiney wet look. the body from warmoth will be bare when it arrives.
    Duplicolor rattlecans work very well. But ask either Dino or Ron, they are the resident expert on factory finish. I'm sure they will guide you in the process.

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    11.17.15 @ 08:56 PM
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    +1 on what bunnyman said.

    The body shop is going to be clearing your body in urethane ... and the ReRanch stuff is nitro.

    Alot of folks prefer nitro, but it will crack, check, and yellow over time.
    I'm not sure what effect (if any) this would have once it's cleared with urethane, but I wouldn't recommend mixing the two. Especially considering the amount of nitro that you would have be shooting (three different color basecoats).

    Also consider that the there may be no initial after-effects.
    Nitro cracks, checks, and yellows with age, so the effects may not show for some time.

    Having said that ...
    Someone did send me an inquiry in regards to using a gloss urethane over a satin nitro finish on a neck. In this case, I think it would depend on the amount of nitro that was used as to how comfortable I would feel about clearing it in urethane. If it's a thin coat (or if you sand it back), the nitro could just act as a sealer and you'd probably be okay. As a general rule though ... mixing paints is a no no.

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    btw ... if a "factory finish" is what you're going for, don't forget to seal the grain and do a VERY thorough prep job.
    The better the prep job, the better the results of your finished product.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dino5150 View Post
    btw ... if a "factory finish" is what you're going for, don't forget to seal the grain and do a VERY thorough prep job.
    The better the prep job, the better the results of your finished product.
    Amen!!!

    The reason why most home paintjobs are such a mess is incomplete and/or rushed/impatient prep work. If this is your first time around, I would just stripe it between colour sprays. I know it's a pain in the arse, but if you want that "better-than-factory" finish, get your hand in it by striping it yourself and let a pro do the hard stuff.
    Dammit!!! I still smell like cotton candy!!!

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    11.03.17 @ 01:35 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dino5150 View Post
    +1 on what bunnyman said.

    The body shop is going to be clearing your body in urethane ... and the ReRanch stuff is nitro.

    Alot of folks prefer nitro, but it will crack, check, and yellow over time.
    I'm not sure what effect (if any) this would have once it's cleared with urethane, but I wouldn't recommend mixing the two. Especially considering the amount of nitro that you would have be shooting (three different color basecoats).

    Also consider that the there may be no initial after-effects.
    Nitro cracks, checks, and yellows with age, so the effects may not show for some time.

    Having said that ...
    Someone did send me an inquiry in regards to using a gloss urethane over a satin nitro finish on a neck. In this case, I think it would depend on the amount of nitro that was used as to how comfortable I would feel about clearing it in urethane. If it's a thin coat (or if you sand it back), the nitro could just act as a sealer and you'd probably be okay. As a general rule though ... mixing paints is a no no.

    In general, Urethane plays well with a lot of other types of paint....providing that the paint it is going over is VERY well cured. That said, Nitro based paints can still be releasing agents from them for weeks and even months after they are applied, which makes for a poor base for urethane and can actually cause the clear to delaminate. Most automotive urethanes in solid color are available in a 'single stage' (color and shine done in one step) and a 'basecoat/clearcoat' (color base, clear 'shiney' coat), stick with one manufacturer for a bc/cc paint job, and you will have a finish that looks great and lasts a very long time.

    Note: Stay away from any waterborne primers, as I have yet to find one that plays well with wood.
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    [QUOTE=VanHalenRules;1133015] That said, Nitro based paints can still be releasing agents from them for weeks and even months after they are applied, which makes for a poor base for urethane and can actually cause the clear to delaminate.QUOTE]


    Try years for Nitro!!!
    Dammit!!! I still smell like cotton candy!!!

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    [QUOTE=bunnyman;1133018]
    Quote Originally Posted by VanHalenRules View Post
    That said, Nitro based paints can still be releasing agents from them for weeks and even months after they are applied, which makes for a poor base for urethane and can actually cause the clear to delaminate.QUOTE]

    Try years for Nitro!!!

    I know nitro continues to shrink, crack, check, and yellow over time (years) ... but I'm not too sure it actually "releases agents" for years.

    VanHalenRules is right about urethane "playing nice" with alot of different types of paint. But as he stated ... that's providing it has fully cured. With this being a new project involving fresh paint, personally ... I wouldn't chance it.

    VanHalenRules/bunnyman ... what are your thoughts on using a gloss urethane over a nitro satin clear on a maple neck? Personally, I hate glossy necks, but this person was asking if he could use the urethane over the satin nitro. My first suggestion was to just go over the satin clear with a gloss nitro clear to ensure compatability. But with the knowledge that urethane "plays nice" with alot of different types of paint, and assuming that the satin clear is most likely just a thin coat to seal and protect the neck from the elements, I told the guy that he could probably get away with it.
    What are your thoughts?

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    Just a tough on the neck situation Dino. i had to do the same for a friend. a Strat neck that he wanted full glossy and it was a satin neck. i sanded it down, with a fine sand paper, then applied 6 coats of tru-oil, and it's was like a mirror once buffed. and it gets hard as any clear i've seen so far.

    [QUOTE=Dino5150;1133066]
    Quote Originally Posted by bunnyman View Post


    I know nitro continues to shrink, crack, check, and yellow over time (years) ... but I'm not too sure it actually "releases agents" for years.

    VanHalenRules is right about urethane "playing nice" with alot of different types of paint. But as he stated ... that's providing it has fully cured. With this being a new project involving fresh paint, personally ... I wouldn't chance it.

    VanHalenRules/bunnyman ... what are your thoughts on using a gloss urethane over a nitro satin clear on a maple neck? Personally, I hate glossy necks, but this person was asking if he could use the urethane over the satin nitro. My first suggestion was to just go over the satin clear with a gloss nitro clear to ensure compatability. But with the knowledge that urethane "plays nice" with alot of different types of paint, and assuming that the satin clear is most likely just a thin coat to seal and protect the neck from the elements, I told the guy that he could probably get away with it.
    What are your thoughts?

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    Quote Originally Posted by al3d View Post
    Just a tough on the neck situation Dino. i had to do the same for a friend. a Strat neck that he wanted full glossy and it was a satin neck. i sanded it down, with a fine sand paper, then applied 6 coats of tru-oil, and it's was like a mirror once buffed. and it gets hard as any clear i've seen so far.
    Yeah ... Tru-Oil is certainly a good option as well.

    I was mainly just concerned with the compatability issues regarding using urethane over the satin nitro though. I was told it is just a thin coat of nitro and it has had plenty of time to fully cure, so I honestly don't forsee it as being a problem, however, this really isn't something I've done myself so ... I dunno.

    I have used urethane over ALOT of different types of paint.
    Unfortunately, nitro isn't one of them.

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    11.03.17 @ 01:35 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dino5150 View Post
    I know nitro continues to shrink, crack, check, and yellow over time (years) ... but I'm not too sure it actually "releases agents" for years.

    VanHalenRules is right about urethane "playing nice" with alot of different types of paint. But as he stated ... that's providing it has fully cured. With this being a new project involving fresh paint, personally ... I wouldn't chance it.
    Yeah, the stuff is generally gone within a month, but I would want to wait a year before even thinking of coating it with urethane. If anyone here is familiar with the 'old school' way of painting cars with lacquer, it's a very time consuming chore. Paint first coat, let sit for a day or two, water sand with ultra fine grit sandpaper and repeat, about 10 or more times with very thin coats, each time slowly building up the thickness of the finish. The reason for the "sitting" time between coats is to let sufficient amounts of "Flash" time for the thinners/reducers to work themselves out between coats. As an example, my uncle and I did a lacquer job on a '73 Trans Am, and when we were done, the guy wanted the hood bird put on that day and insisted we do so. We had him sign a waiver to protect ourselves from liability (thankfully) and we put it on and he went on his way. Well, the paint was still releasing, and started lifting his $600 hood bird. Shows you what can happen with even a decal if you don't wait for the paint to cure. Urethane eliminates this and can be made to have the same quality finish.

    VanHalenRules/bunnyman ... what are your thoughts on using a gloss urethane over a nitro satin clear on a maple neck? Personally, I hate glossy necks, but this person was asking if he could use the urethane over the satin nitro. My first suggestion was to just go over the satin clear with a gloss nitro clear to ensure compatability. But with the knowledge that urethane "plays nice" with alot of different types of paint, and assuming that the satin clear is most likely just a thin coat to seal and protect the neck from the elements, I told the guy that he could probably get away with it.
    What are your thoughts?
    I dunno, it's a crap shoot Dino. How old is the finish? If it's more than a year old, I would think that a scuff down with a green Scotchbrite pad would provide enough 'bite' for the urethane to hold on and not have an issue. I would go with very light 'dusting coats' with the urethane clear though, probably using a jamb or "spot" spray gun, and just enough that you get the "gloss" look. In this case, less is definitely better.
    Last edited by VanHalenRules; 05.07.09 at 11:29 AM.
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    01.26.13 @ 09:47 AM
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    thanks for all the replies guys. i think im trying to take in too much info though. ill stay away from nitro since this is my first time. i will stick with a body shop clearing it, probably urathane. what brand of paint should i use that comes in a can? i checked out stew mac, they dont have anything in a can except black. i have a compressor so i could buy a gun, but i have never used one and am not sure i want to get into that just yet. thanks again guys.

 

 

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