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    Eruption AFU's Avatar
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    12.17.17 @ 05:51 AM
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    Default Kramer jack install questions

    Hello. I bought a body on ebay and am making a 5150 replica. Unfortunately, the output jack hole was not routed out. So I guess I need to do some drilling. I am not good with a drill but I do have a dremel too. Anybody know where to make the hole and how? It looks really complicated. Also what kind of jack should I use? Thanks.

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    Emperor of VHLinks.com Brett's Avatar
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    12.17.17 @ 08:24 PM
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    Well I've never drilled a jack hole before, so I'll leave that alone, but you will need to get a barrel jack after you do it.
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    I'm not so sure you're going to be able to do that with a Dremel. Maybe I'm wrong, but I've certainly never been able to make that large of a hole through solid wood with my Dremel.

    Some of our other more experienced guys will be able to advise you better about the possibility of drilling with a Dremel. In my experience, though, I'd say your best bet is to go buy a decent drill (you can do well just going to Target and buying a mid-range Black and Decker) and a set of Forstner Bits (Porter Cable makes a great set I bought for under $20: http://www.epinions.com/review/Porte..._465007382148). Measure your spot and angle carefully, mount the body to something sturdy, and drill your hole. Those bits will come in handy for everything from guitar projects to fixing up your house, and you'll use the drill for even more. We're talking maybe $60 total.

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    Eruption Dance The Night Away's Avatar
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    07.12.17 @ 05:19 PM
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    Not sure if this helps but this is where the jack is on my Baretta. Brett is right about the barrel jack.

    \m/ VH \m/

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    Eruption AFU's Avatar
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    Default

    Nice Barretta! Always tried to buy a white one everytime I saw them but never had the money back in the '80's

    Thanks for your quick replies! I do own a drill. Just not very lucky with it. Seems I usually make some sort of mistake, but get the job done, its just not pretty.

    I remembered this morning my brother has a '89 Striker at my Mothers house. So I'm gonna reveerse engineer it to see how its done!

    Think I can clamp it to the kitchen table and drill away. Probably should get a jack first to see the size.

    Thanks again guys!

  6. #6
    5150 A&Z Guitar Repair's Avatar
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    Mark your center, using an awl or sharp pointed object to make an indent for your bit. Start the bit in reverse to "center" the bit, then run it forward. Pre drill the hole with a smaller bit, working your way up. This will help since you don't have a drill press. You can also use a reamer for final fitting.

    Here's a link to Stew-Mac's site for the jack... http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electron...tput_Jack.html
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    Forum Frontman fudd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dance The Night Away View Post
    Not sure if this helps but this is where the jack is on my Baretta. Brett is right about the barrel jack.

    Nice grail!

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    Eruption Dance The Night Away's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuddman5150 View Post
    Nice grail!
    Thanks.
    \m/ VH \m/

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    Is there any extra routing so the jack sits flush? Or does the "flush" mount jack fit right into the 1/2 in. hole?

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    Here's the jack you want ...
    http://www.allparts.com/store/electr...00,Product.asp

    As for drilling your hole ...
    I'd definately recommend a Forstner bit.
    Also test fit the input jack PRIOR to painting, to make sure the route was done deep enough to accept the nut for the jack.

    The route for the jack on my blue 5150 wasn't done properly from inside the control cavity, and I didn't catch it until AFTER the body had been painted.

    Fortunately, Dremel makes a 90 degree drill attachment that enabled me to finish routing it out. There was VERY little room in the control cavity and I couldn't have done it any other way, but it's all good. I normally do "mock ups" so I don't have to do this type of stuff on an already painted body, but I guess I overlooked it.
    Last edited by Dino5150; 04.27.09 at 07:48 AM.

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    Good Enough SLEEPER5150's Avatar
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    12.03.10 @ 03:16 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brett View Post
    Well I've never drilled a jack hole before, so I'll leave that alone, but you will need to get a barrel jack after you do it.
    As stated, that's asking alot of a Dremel, but just get a regular drill. It's not complicated at all. As for barrel jacks, I use a SwitchCraft sealed unit. Had them in use for 22 years, and their still clean and have good contacts still. As far as drilling the hole, just go get yourself some nice sharp bits, and drill in three or or four steps. Pilot hole, the step up a couple sizes, then your finish size. A Forstner bit works best, but this method will get the same results if you take your time. The most important thing to do though is make sure you bolster the surface with some scrap wood clamped or banded to the area you are drilling through, and don't force the drill. This will avoid any chance of the wood splintering. Like I said, it's not complicated, just take your time. Once your pilot whole is drilled in the right location the rest is butter. Even if you do get a little splintering, not the end of the world, just get a good quality woodfiller like Lepages Plastic Wood, and let it cure. It is incredibly strong stuff. It will dry very fast, as it has an acetone base and you can usually continue with your project after a couple of hours depending on the depth of the repair.
    Last edited by SLEEPER5150; 04.27.09 at 08:12 AM.
    She looks so $#@!'n good ,so sexy and so frail....Somethin's got the bite on me, I'm goin' straight to Hell.

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    I can appreciate the advice of using multiple drill bits of various sizes BUT ...
    using multiple bits of various sizes will only increase your chances of "chewing" a sloppy hole, especially with a hand drill. And each time you switch bits to go to a larger size, you only increase your chances of damaging your body that much more.

    A Forstner bit cuts from the outside diameter in, not from the inside out like a normal drill bit.

    It'll leave a nice clean, precise hole with only one pass of the drill required.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SLEEPER5150 View Post
    The most important thing to do though is make sure you bolster the surface with some scrap wood clamped or banded to the area you are drilling through, and don't force the drill. This will avoid any chance of the wood splintering.
    This is always a good idea -- with any drill bit.

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    Good Enough SLEEPER5150's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dino5150 View Post
    I can appreciate the advice of using multiple drill bits of various sizes BUT ...
    using multiple bits of various sizes will only increase your chances of "chewing" a sloppy hole, especially with a hand drill. And each time you switch bits to go to a larger size, you only increase your chances of damaging your body that much more.

    A Forstner bit cuts from the outside diameter in, not from the inside out like a normal drill bit.

    It'll leave a nice clean, precise hole with only one pass of the drill required.
    Absolutely Dino. I just mean in lew of a forstner bit, and only as an alternative to drilling an 1/8" pilot hole, then going to town with the finish size! I seen it done....it's not pretty. I've got a neat little forstner kit I picked up at a specialty house. It uses a unique telescoping shaft for different applications, and has about 16 specific cutter heads, and also comes with a sharpening hone. Quite cool. Can't wait to try it out, but back on track, a forstner is the pro way to go. I just suggested it is an option, plus bolstering usually eliminates the dreaded tearaway of material.
    She looks so $#@!'n good ,so sexy and so frail....Somethin's got the bite on me, I'm goin' straight to Hell.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SLEEPER5150 View Post
    Absolutely Dino. I just mean in lew of a forstner bit, and only as an alternative to drilling an 1/8" pilot hole, then going to town with the finish size! I seen it done....it's not pretty. I've got a neat little forstner kit I picked up at a specialty house. It uses a unique telescoping shaft for different applications, and has about 16 specific cutter heads, and also comes with a sharpening hone. Quite cool. Can't wait to try it out, but back on track, a forstner is the pro way to go. I just suggested it is an option, plus bolstering usually eliminates the dreaded tearaway of material.

    Sounds like a very cool forstner bit you've got there.

    Another advantage to using forstner bits is the ability to drill through an already finished body without having to worry about chipping or damaging the paint (and yeah, I know about masking tape tricks, etc.. ). Drilling holes last eliminates the possibility of water seeping under the paint and into the grain, causing the wood to swell and the paint to wrinkle and/or crack. It's also helpful when building a striped replica, as you have the ability to place the holes more accurately in relation to the stripes.

 

 

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