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  1. #1
    Little Dreamer vanhammersly's Avatar
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    01.05.12 @ 08:01 PM
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    Default Novice Pup change

    I want to take the stock Duncans out of the bridge of my Jackson DK2 and replace with Dimarzio Tone Zone pups. I have never done this before. It can't be that difficult right? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. (or do i need to take it to a shop)
    Another life saved by girl on girl action--House

  2. #2
    Baluchitherium
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    They're all great!
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    04.02.15 @ 07:26 AM
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    Donor

    Default

    if you're buying the pups from a store then hey come with pretty good fitting instructions if they are used you should be able to get a schematic at the dimarzio website.
    its not a hard job to do, use a low wattage soldering iron, good quality solder (fluxed core) and take your time. afterwards check everything and make sure you have no cold/dry solder joints (dull grey rather than silver)
    http://www.facebook.com/Tommywho5150

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  3. #3
    Baluchitherium Mikey Metalhead's Avatar
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    06.12.15 @ 12:43 PM
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    Donor

    Default

    just remember, if you have never soldered, or not much, these are tiny wires.

    It only gets semi complicated if the new or old pups have coil taps and
    if you want to use them.

    worse case, if they have two extra wires for taps and you do not want or do not have a switch to use them, you wire the two together... then you just have
    a hot, grnd (think in terms of a complete circuit) and a common that
    gets soldered to your volume pot to ground everything properly.

    I dont remember the colors off the top of my head, but like mentioned, it will come with instructions or they are easy to find. look closely at the old ones, as even if the colors do not match, you will get a good idea of what is going on.
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  4. #4
    Romeo Delight
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    12.22.09 @ 08:02 AM
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by vanhammersly View Post
    I want to take the stock Duncans out of the bridge of my Jackson DK2 and replace with Dimarzio Tone Zone pups. I have never done this before. It can't be that difficult right? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. (or do i need to take it to a shop)

    A few golden rules I try to always remember:

    -Most of life's questions can be answered through repeated viewings of "Jay and Silent Bob Strike Back"

    -Never learn how to do soldering/wiring on your main axe. Get some crap parts/or guitar and practice for a bit first.

    I'll post some soldering tips in a few.

  5. #5
    5150 bunnyman's Avatar
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    11.06.14 @ 04:06 AM
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    Default A few tips on soldering

    Quote Originally Posted by vanhammersly View Post
    I want to take the stock Duncans out of the bridge of my Jackson DK2 and replace with Dimarzio Tone Zone pups. I have never done this before. It can't be that difficult right? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. (or do i need to take it to a shop)
    First of all- Radio Shack sells a nice 15/30 watt iron. Get an iron, not a gun. Guns just take too much time when trying to solder to the back of pots. And get the nifty-swifty iron holder (platform with a large spring to put the iron in), 'cos you will burn the bejeezus out of your hands and your counter if you use the stupid little holder in the package. Make certain to dampen the sponge and use it, as wiping your iron after every pass is VITAL to preventing the corrosion of your tip. And use the pencil tip.

    Whilst in the same isle of Radio Shack, get some nice solder. You don't need large gauge solder AT ALL.

    Thirdly, wait for your iron to heat up. This may take a few minutes, but is vital to success in soldering.

    Heat the wires, then add solder. This prevents the cold joints Tommy spoke of.

    And the guy who sez to not experiment on your main axe- he's right. However, new pots, jack, switches and wiring are not all that expensive. But if in serious doubt- take it to the local luthier and buy piece of mind that the job is done right.
    Dammit!!! I still smell like cotton candy!!!

  6. #6
    Good Enough nobozos's Avatar
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    12.12.17 @ 03:16 PM
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    Default

    Hey dude, soldering is not as easy as you may think. Yeah, you can throw a glob of solder on the wires and stick them to your pots, but that can lead to bad solder joints, and cause you problems.

    Let me recommend a couple tips for you to practice before you delve into your guitars control cavity to do the actual work.

    First, some soldering tips.

    Rosin core solder vs. solid solder and flux. Rosin core solder is solder that has the flux built into the solder. Solid solder has no flux and requires the use of a paste called flux.

    Flux is a paste that causes the solder to "climb onto" what you are trying to attach. Either kind is fine, and will work well.

    I'm going to assume you are using rosin core solder for the following.

    Now, most people will strip the end of the wire to be attached, heat up the wire and contact, and melt the solder onto the whole thing. This is not the best way to attach the wire.

    "Tinning" the wire.
    What you want to do is strip the appropriate amount of insulation off the wire to attach to the contact. You need to be careful not to cut into strands of the wire when stripping the insulation. After the conductor is exposed, you want to take your hot soldering tip (not too hot, just hot enough to melt the solder) and melt a small amount of solder to the tip. This small drop of solder on the tip of your soldering iron helps with heat transfer to the wire, and makes the job go much smoother. Touch the solder tip to the wire near the end to heat the wire enough to melt the solder to it. Touch the solder to the wire, and it will melt to the wire, turning it a shiny silver color. This melts the solder into the strands of wire, making maximum contact to all the strands.

    Do the same thing to the pot contacts. Once this is done, position the wire to where you want to solder it. Simply apply the tip of the soldering iron to the contact point, and the solder on the wire and the solder on the pot contact will melt together without any additional solder having to be applied.

    The thing you need to look out for is melting insulation in the control cavity. Move all other wires well out of the way of the area you are working on. If you are not careful, you could lay the side of your soldering iron up against the insulation of another wire, unintentionally melting it, and causing a potential short(which is bad).

    Good luck, and for God's sakes, be careful out there.
    "Having an opinion that people disagree with doesn't make you a Douche, arguing with the people who disagree with your opinion and calling them stupid does!" -Me.

  7. #7
    Romeo Delight
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    12.22.09 @ 08:02 AM
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    Default

    This is what I do for soldering to the back of a pot, but I think it pretty much applies to guitar soldering in general (except maybe for the widest tip part):

    *use heat sinks when possible
    -use the widest tip you have for the back of the pot
    -let iron (40-45 watts) heat up. when solder flows onto it, its ready to go.
    -tin (tinning is applying a thin layer of solder to every surface to be soldered) tip before using it for the first time and keep it wet throughout process. dry tip wont work
    -scuff up back of pot
    -put flux on pot
    -tin back of pot
    -put flux on wire
    -tin wire
    -put flux on pot and wire again
    -put solder on tip until a tear drop forms (doing it this way prevents the need for a 3rd hand!)
    -put wire on pot
    -put tip on wire and pot
    -solder will flow onto both
    -remove tip but hold wire on pot for a sec or two
    -unplug soldering iron
    -your done

    *NEVER use a soldering gun, only a soldering iron. Could demagnetize the pup. If in the process of tinning the back of the pot you leave too much solder behind, remove the excess with copper solder braid.

    Also, check each connection with a multi-meter before moving on. You'll save yourself ALOT of headaches, trust me. You can't tell if a connection is sound by looking at it.

 

 

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