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  1. #1
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    07.04.16 @ 08:03 PM
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    Default Thinline Strat Oil Finish Suggestions / Help

    Hi All:

    Again I'm seeking advice on a new guitar project.

    Last week I bought a Thinline Strat body, made of alder with a 1/4" quilt maple top. I want to do a Tru-Oil finish (Birchwood Casey--gun stock oil). It's my understanding that multiple coats of Tru-Oil is best, and when done it should be smoothed over with steel wool and waxed for protection.

    Three questions:

    1. Will the Tru-Oil bring out the quilt top in the same way a dye does?

    2. What kind of wax (or other finish) is best for the protective coat?

    3. Anyone have other recommendations/suggestions?

    I've wanted to do an oil finish on a natural top for a while. It will also be good to NOT have to worry about lacquer or spraying, as that always demands the most time on my projects.

    Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by AT; 12.10.07 at 01:31 AM.

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    Here's a picture of the body.
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  3. #3
    Eruption TheMightyCopenHalenII's Avatar
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    I've seen a few nice pictures of Warmoths finished with the Birchwood Casey stuff.

    If you're going to finish the axe with the BC oil/wax, I'd recommend following the manufacturer's directions to a T. Especially the oil part and letting it dry - I'd also maybe do a test spot to make sure that the steel wool doesn't "stain" the wood - which if you let it dry for the right amount of time it shouldn't be a problem. That's a pretty nice top, and I think the oil would do it justice. As far as multiple coats, I think that's a given - but as far as to how many I think you'll be able to figure it out just by sight. I'd stick with the BC wax after you get the oil part done, and just wax her up nice and pretty.
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    Sinner's Swing!
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    12.14.17 @ 08:00 PM
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewThomas.net View Post
    2. What kind of wax (or other finish) is best for the protective coat?
    I have NO IDEA if it's appropriate for use on the body, but I can tell you that Birchwood Casey's gunstock wax was the missing ingredient for my EBMM neck.

    Supposedly instead of "mixing it", there is some lady there at the factory that just takes a paper towel, dips it in the Tru Oil, coats back of the neck, grabs a fresh paper towel, gently wipes it off, then rubs on the wax, and then wipes that down as well. They let it dry, and then buff to taste.

    If that's the truth.....and that's I've read from someone who took a tour over at the EBMM forums, then it's shockingly easy. I always assumed they some specific " mixture percentage" or something, and possibly some specific application techniques.

    I would assume if you were doing this to the body, then you'd probably put quiet a few coats of Tru-Oil on before ever considered applying the wax. I'm sure this would span over a few days. Then again, I don't even know if oiling and waxing a guitar's body is appropriate. I've got no clue!

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    I bought a KnE mahogany Strat body off eBay a couple of years ago. The first owner never used it but did finish it with about 20 coats of Tru-Oil. It was good-to-go, and I've since remembered that as something I want to try. (I re-sold that body after determining it would require too much extra routing for my project.)

    Copen is right about following the instructions carefully. I bought some of the Birchwood Casey wax today, and it suggested buffing with a compound rather than steel wool as an option. I think that'll be easier and probably cleaner.

    So I'll prep the body over the next few days, then start to throw on coat after coat of Tru-Oil. The dry weather will be an ally, I think; I should have this thing ready to go by sometime next week.

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    Andrew - good luck. Never used Tru Oil before. As with your coats, does it work like other finishes (the more that is applied, the darker the coloring)?

    Also, steel wool would scare the pants off me. I'd definitely opt for the rubbing compound.

    Please post a pic when your done.

    Thanks.

    Coke

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    07.04.16 @ 08:03 PM
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    Default Neck: Rosewood or Maple?

    I'll for sure post pics when it's done!

    Another question for y'all: With the oil finished natural quilt top and lighter colored alder back, what color fingerboard would look better? I have both a rosewood and a maple neck; either can be used for this project.

    I tend to prefer maple fingerboards, but when setting each neck in the neck pocket I really liked the look of the rosewood. Thoughts?

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    Eruption TheMightyCopenHalenII's Avatar
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    Are they both maple necks?

    I don't think you could go wrong either way, but looking at the body - a maple board with Ab dot inlays would finish it off killer.
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    Both are maple necks: compound radius, 1 5/8" nut (will be a bone nut), one maple fingerboard and one rosewood fingerboard.
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    Eruption TheMightyCopenHalenII's Avatar
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    Well, I think ab dots on the maple board would have rocked - but putting em side by side, I think the rosewood would be a nice contrast - especially if you finish off the tuners with some pearl buttons. As long as the rosewood board sounds as good/better to you - go for it.
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    I'm not a fan of Rosewood necks, but I agree with the above post. It would definitely show a nice contrast. I think the maple neck with that finish would be a little too much light color (if I'm completely understanding what Tru Oil will do).

    Either way, I'm sure it will be cool. Are those Mighty Mite necks?

    Good luck.

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    can i be third to say, go with the rosewood board.
    i think it'll contrast nicely with the body finish, i think going with a maple board will give the apperance of a totaly unfinished guitar, a bit naked, if u know what i mean.

    on a similar note to the original thread topic...wasnt the body on the washburn n (the nuno bettencourt models) series guitars oil/wax finished, they aged amazingly.
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    I'm with you guys; the rosewood board really will offer a nice contrast to the lighter colors of the body. Thanks for chiming in!

    Yes, they're Mighty Mite necks--bought for other projects that didn't materialize. I've been impressed with the quality of the MM necks these days. How they'll hold up over time is still a big question mark, but for $100 they're pretty consistent.

    I love the look of pearloid tuner buttons, but these are going to stay chrome to match ALL of the hardware which is also chrome. And by ALL I mean everything--jack plate, bridge, pickups, pickup rings, etc.

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    I have put Tru Oil on a Korina Strat that I put together. I am not sure what will happen to a maple top but it really brought out the grain on my piece of wood. Birchwood Casey also makes a gun wax and that is what I used on the body after the true oil. I used a brillo pad to smooth out the finish.
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    Eruption TheMightyCopenHalenII's Avatar
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    I'll bet that Korina strat looks killer DTNA - I wonder if your is one of the one's I've seen pictures of.

    Andrew, I know you want to keep the chrome complement - and if this was a plain jane Strat or Tele - I'd be right there with you. To each his own man, I just think some pearl buttons would complement that top and rosewood board real nice.
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