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Thread: My new OLP MM1

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    Eruption snostorm's Avatar
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    12.08.17 @ 02:36 PM
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    Default My new OLP MM1

    I finally convinced my wife to let me get a new guitar, I'm still a pretty novice player even though I have been tinkering around for a number of years...I have never invested the time to getting better though. I found this on ebay last week and with my bonus check from work I was able to get this and still have plenty left over for household improvements and what not(aka Wife appeaser). I really think I will like it and it's probably the closest I will ever get to owning the real thing or even the Wolfgang. The color to me is perfect, solid black with the ivory "binding", my fav. guitar is the black Wolfgang standard like in the Humans Being video. The only question I have though, especially for someone else who owns one, the pictures in the item listing show the bridge pickup to be somewhat skewed. Is this how they normally come or is this a defect that I will have to fix by remounting the pickup. Any help with this question would be appreciated.

    Last edited by snostorm; 05.09.06 at 03:18 PM.

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    The Frantic Antic TopTimi's Avatar
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    06.14.13 @ 10:39 PM
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    That is the way they come. I had to double check my OLP MM1 to make sure. Unless we both have a defect. You should enjoy it very much. I love mine and it gets a regular workout. Cheers!

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    Eruption snostorm's Avatar
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    cool, it seems like every photo i see is either tilted slightly or somethin so the angle of the pickups always looks different. Thanks for the reply.

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    Eruption snostorm's Avatar
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    Got my OLP in yesterday and I'm really impressed by it. The bridge pickup that looked way skewed doesnt look that way in person...photo angle I guess..anyway I have played it for about 2 hours so far and really enjoy the feel of it. I have bigger hands so the larger neck suits me fine, but it still feels smaller than my Peavey. I'd recomend it to any beginner as a nice alternative to a strat style. Now the only thing I would like to do is put on a floyd rose. Has anybody done this to one or any guitar for that matter? Is it difficult or should I just have an expert do it.

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    I know some people have done it, but seriously, it wouldn't be worth the money. I'd imagine you paid between $100 - $150 for that guitar. It would cost at least that much to buy/install a Floyd Copy that won't stay in tune much better than the vintage trem you have on the guitar now. If you are just learning to play on a regular basis, you will not want the hassle of a Floyd, let alone trying to put a floyd on that guitar. If you really feel a need to use your tremelo, have the vintage trem adjusted so that it sits flush with the body, and upgrade your tuners. You will stay in tune just as well, and not spend near the amount of money/aggrivation. For the money and hassle, you could just buy a new OLP MM1 with a Floyd for $280, and have that as your main guitar, and the black MM1 as your back-up.

    http://www.musiciansfriend.com/produ...ric?sku=516072

    The MM1 is not bad for the money. I played a few theat were real nice, but take them for what they are. A cool looking, functional budget guitar that's enjoyable to play. Once you start throwing money/time into it, you may end up not enjoying it as much....

    ~Peace

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    I believe I found the main problem...


    Quote Originally Posted by snostorm
    I finally convinced my wife to let me get a new guitar

    I keeed I keeed.
    Seriously though, nice looking axe sno.
    I've thought about getting the OLP since I seem to have little luck on an original Ernie Ball. Just haven't pulled the trigger yet.

    I agree that messing w/ a Floyd Rose on that would be more of a hassle than benefit. I ve got a black Wolfgang like in the Humans Being video and the locking setup is nice, but not tatally necessary. My Strats stay in tune almost as good.
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    Eruption snostorm's Avatar
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    thanks for the reply guys. Ya the wife didnt really understand why I wanted it until I showed her the real ones and the Wolfgang's...after that bit of info...she caved You are right EJC, i only paid 130 from E-bay which wasnt bad since it was only 6 months old. I honestly didnt know what kind of work was involved in installing a floyd, but after reading that, I see why it's not worth it. I don't do much with the ole whammy bar, but I did not know if there was more benefit than that.

    I agree EJC that you get what you pay for, but with my skill level it's perfect for me, and its at least a solid color and not the cheap laminated quilt top deal. Thanks again for the replies and help.

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    I know some people have done it, but seriously, it wouldn't be worth the money. I'd imagine you paid between $100 - $150 for that guitar. It would cost at least that much to buy/install a Floyd Copy that won't stay in tune much better than the vintage trem you have on the guitar now.
    I totally disagree ...
    The fact that the guitar ONLY costs between $100-$150 is even more reason to invest in a few practical upgrades IMO. A Floyd Rose definately being one of them. It's been my experience that any Floyd that has a problem staying tune is due to improper or poor installation and/or setup.

    If you are just learning to play on a regular basis, you will not want the hassle of a Floyd, let alone trying to put a floyd on that guitar. If you really feel a need to use your tremelo, have the vintage trem adjusted so that it sits flush with the body, and upgrade your tuners. You will stay in tune just as well, and not spend near the amount of money/aggrivation.
    A vintage trem ALREADY does sit flush with the body.

    For the money and hassle, you could just buy a new OLP MM1 with a Floyd for $280, and have that as your main guitar, and the black MM1 as your back-up.
    Then you'll have TWO guitars in need of upgrades.

    The MM1 is not bad for the money. I played a few theat were real nice, but take them for what they are. A cool looking, functional budget guitar that's enjoyable to play. Once you start throwing money/time into it, you may end up not enjoying it as much....
    I bought my OLP off eBay for $100, bought an Original Floyd w/ D-tuna off eBay for another $100, Purchased pearloid tuner buttons from Stewmac for $12, replaced the stock neck screws with heavier OEM Fender screws for $3, and installed an EBMM toggle for $20, and gave the neck a good tung oil treatment for $5 ... TOTAL (guitar AND upgrades) = $240

    Every upgrade I did (with the exception of the tuner buttons) improved the performance of the OLP and was well worth the effort IMO.

    Last edited by Dino5150; 05.12.06 at 04:31 PM.

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    Yeah but Dino, you do guitar work as a profession and career. This guy is just getting into guitar playing. I'm sure with your experience, it's nothing to slap a Floyd on a guitar and have it set-up with proper intonation, etc. For snostorm, he's gotta buy the Floyd, for what the guitar cost him atleast, and then pay someone to install it. Not worth it. I doubt he wants the hassle of changing strings on a Floyd when he's just getting started. How often would anyone learning to play really use a Floyd anyway? I apologize for my ignorance in not knowing that a vintage trem (on an OLP MM1) already sits flush with the body. I have played a few at Guitar Center, and they were set up to float about 1/8" off the body like a Fender standard strat. I've never had a problem setting up vintage trem's to stay in tune. I just offered him a suggestion to save a few bucks.

    I've been lifting weights for 14 years, and I'm pretty damn good at it. If someone asks me for advice in the gym, I give it to them. But I tell them to do what works for them. I don't want some kid trying to leg press 850 or repping out with 225 on the bench because I can do it.

    ~Peace

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    Quote Originally Posted by EJC
    I've been lifting weights for 14 years, and I'm pretty damn good at it. If someone asks me for advice in the gym, I give it to them. But I tell them to do what works for them. I don't want some kid trying to leg press 850 or repping out with 225 on the bench because I can do it.
    Having read that ... I must agree with everything you said.

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    ok guys, regardless of whether I upgrade the guitar or not, I have to say after playing it for a good number of hours that i absolutely love it. It's so much more fun to play than my Peavey Raptor (although I still love my Raptor). And the pickups are great to my ears, they definately have a nicer crunchier sound than the single coils...if that makes any sense.

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    12.22.09 @ 08:02 AM
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    Here's a great mod for improving a buckers sound for short money. Covert it to double screws then radius the poles. Especially good when you don't want to drop alot of cash, but want very noticeable results.

    Nylon inserts go in the slug holes because the screws are smaller than the slugs. Be careful popping the slugs out, some of them are in there pretty tight. Clean the slug holes of wax with a Q-tip. The inserts get super glued in the slug holes.

    A metal bar(stew-mac for standard, ampge for f-spaced) goes underneath the slug bobbin to transfer the magnetic field thru the screws up to the strings. Be careful pushing it into place, because wax under the bobbin can be pushed into the wires on the other side of the pup. And those wires are tiny!

    Cut the inserts to 5-7mill. This will allow the head to lower down into the bobbin without hitting the insert. Put the inserts in, push them down till they hit the metal transfer bar. ONLY THEN apply the glue around the rim of the insert AFTER it is all the way down in the hole. If you apply it before putting the insert in, hydrolic pressure will force most of the glue out onto the surface of the bobbin. This=BAD.

    After getting the inserts glued in, place the pup in front of a small fan for overnite. If you don't the glue's fumes will mar the surface of the bobbin, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!! (Jeff @HighOrder clued me in on this). Wax up the screws before putting them(GENTLY) in the inserts or they'll break the glue seal and just spin in place.

    Lastly, the screw heads have to be ground down to fit in the slug holes. Duncan screws are almost impossible to grind down(at least with my file and dremel), may be the case with stew-mac screws also. So you might need a heavy duty file for that one. Stewmac carries the screws in nickle, kind of expensive tho(50-75 cents I think). Fastenal has them for around 10 cents each, but only in bright zinc(which is easy to grind down).

    Nothin beats a radiused double screw bucker. Cause if you think about it, the outside E's are set at whatever distance you like, but the inside four strings are miles away from the poles. Might want to knock the pot down to 250(1 500 meg or 2 1meg resistors in parallel) if you do radius the poles. Cause there is an increase in treble to go along with the added 3D wallop and crunch.

    Kind of a pain to do, but man what a difference!
    Last edited by the breadman; 05.15.06 at 01:07 PM.

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    Top Of The World ncbuckeye3's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dino5150
    A vintage trem ALREADY does sit flush with the body.

    If set up correctly, it will be about 1/8" higher in the back when tuned to pitch. I believe this is what he is referring to. To make it flush to the body, you need to tighten the spring tension (or add more strings) and then adjust saddle height to stop fret buzz.

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    Quote Originally Posted by the breadman
    Here's a great mod for improving a buckers sound for short money. Covert it to double screws then radius the poles. Especially good when you don't want to drop alot of cash, but want very noticeable results.

    Nylon inserts go in the slug holes because the screws are smaller than the slugs. Be careful popping the slugs out, some of them are in there pretty tight. Clean the slug holes of wax with a Q-tip. The inserts get super glued in the slug holes.

    A metal bar(stew-mac for standard, ampge for f-spaced) goes underneath the slug bobbin to transfer the magnetic field thru the screws up to the strings. Be careful pushing it into place, because wax under the bobbin can be pushed into the wires on the other side of the pup. And those wires are tiny!

    Cut the inserts to 5-7mill. This will allow the head to lower down into the bobbin without hitting the insert. Put the inserts in, push them down till they hit the metal transfer bar. ONLY THEN apply the glue around the rim of the insert AFTER it is all the way down in the hole. If you apply it before putting the insert in, hydrolic pressure will force most of the glue out onto the surface of the bobbin. This=BAD.

    After getting the inserts glued in, place the pup in front of a small fan for overnite. If you don't the glue's fumes will mar the surface of the bobbin, YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!! (Jeff @HighOrder clued me in on this). Wax up the screws before putting them(GENTLY) in the inserts or they'll break the glue seal and just spin in place.

    Lastly, the screw heads have to be ground down to fit in the slug holes. Duncan screws are almost impossible to grind down(at least with my file and dremel), may be the case with stew-mac screws also. So you might need a heavy duty file for that one. Stewmac carries the screws in nickle, kind of expensive tho(50-75 cents I think). Fastenal has them for around 10 cents each, but only in bright zinc(which is easy to grind down).

    Nothin beats a radiused double screw bucker. Cause if you think about it, the outside E's are set at whatever distance you like, but the inside four strings are miles away from the poles. Might want to knock the pot down to 250(1 500 meg or 2 1meg resistors in parallel) if you do radius the poles. Cause there is an increase in treble to go along with the added 3D wallop and crunch.

    Kind of a pain to do, but man what a difference!
    That is awesome info. breadman!
    I'll definately be experimenting with this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ncbuckeye3
    If set up correctly, it will be about 1/8" higher in the back when tuned to pitch. I believe this is what he is referring to. To make it flush to the body, you need to tighten the spring tension (or add more strings) and then adjust saddle height to stop fret buzz.
    If you would have read prior to my posting, you would have seen that we were discussing the MM1F, which has a recess route. There is no recess route on the MM1 (vintage trem) and I'm sure a majority of people would not consider a vintage trem to be a "floating bridge" because of an 1/8" gap in the rear.

 

 

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