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  1. #1
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    11.17.17 @ 08:12 AM
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    Hey guys...

    Having a little string breakage issue-age or somethin and was hoping someone might be able to help out?

    I've been breaking a lot more strings than I ever have before without changing what I'm using. Most often the B string is breaking. Has for the past couple few breaks.

    I think I've looked at what I think would be the obvious reasons and found nothing so far. Seems the string is breaking either where it rests on the bridge or where it comes through from inserting one into the base of the bridge. I haven't seen any sharp spots anywhere on the bridge, but maybe just need to look harder.

    I'm using a wolfgang, with the stop tail piece bridge. Maybe someone has had similar problems and can help? Heck, maybe I'm just playing harder nowadays. But now I NEED to bring a backup with me just in case. Hopeing I could make a fix and get the reliability back.

    peace...
    "If at first you don't understand Van Halen's music, crank up the volume."
    -Washington Post, April, 1980

  2. #2
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    03.30.13 @ 09:28 AM
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    Hi Steely. First some questions. Just bear with me here.
    I'm assuming you haven't changed your brand of strings have you? What about guage?
    Have you mofified the height of the saddles recently?
    Also, when you buy strings, do you buy them in bulk or a pack or two at a time.
    How long have you had this particular wolf? If it's the amber one on your website, she's a nice one. It looks like you play her pretty consistantly.
    Have you rubbed down your saddles with 0000 steel wool. (won't harm or discolor the saddles)
    You can use a wooden toothpick to get the steel wool into the grooves, but "don't" use anything metal.
    Have you checked to make sure the saddles haven't shifted slightly? Even the slightest shifting over time can cause problems.
    The first thing I'd reccomend is to rub the slot where the strings rest with 0000 steel wool. take your time with it. Over time sweat can get in the groove and cause it to roughen, which isn't always visible to the naked eye. You can work on one saddle first, rubbing only in the groove from front to back, and see if it makes a difference.
    Don't worry. No matter how much you rub with 0000 steel wool, you won't wear the groove, you'll just polish it.
    Also, after polishing the saddles try this. Buy one pack of a different brand of string, from a different manufacturer, but the same guage you're using now, and try them.
    As strange as it may sound you can buy batches of the same string that are defective, since they're cut from bales. I used to buy boxes of 12 pack at a time, and every once in awhile I'd go through 4 or 5 packs, breaking a no. of them, even the A string, and then it would just stop.
    First I'd polish the saddle grooves well, and try a different manufacturers string.
    By the way, great website.

  3. #3
    Emperor of VHLinks.com Brett's Avatar
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    12.16.17 @ 01:49 AM
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    You know one thing I've noticed, since I am a chronic string breaker is after I stopped tightening the Floyd clamps so much, let them a little looser, my breakage problem is much better. And yes I have a Wolfie and an EBMM and I had the same issues with both guitars.
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  4. #4
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    12.14.17 @ 09:52 PM
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    i had the same deal with my wolfie as well with the b and e strings. i loosened the saddle a bit and put on ghs boomers...10 gauge instead of 9's and it worked awesome! haven't broken anything since, unless i trem pick too much

    JMJ
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  5. #5
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    03.30.13 @ 09:28 AM
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    Steely's using a stop tail peice model. No trem, no clamping nut. Completely different problem.

  6. #6
    Emperor of VHLinks.com Brett's Avatar
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    12.16.17 @ 01:49 AM
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    Yep I know, just saying what my problem was and the solution....not that it helps in any way just sharing. [img]smile.gif[/img]
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  7. #7
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    11.17.17 @ 08:12 AM
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    Tribb man, thanks for the info...cool. Let me answer your questions and see what we can further find out here.

    I haven't changed my string brand or gauge, 9-46 d'addario...and have been buying them a couple packs at a time. I've had this Wolfie since 98, and play it alot...it is the amber one on my site...thanks, I think she's a nice one too. I have tinkered with adjusting the action a bit which could be a trouble spot?

    I have never rub down the saddle with steel wool. Which sounds like something I should do. Find some at the hardware store I imagine? As I'm guessing 0000 steel wool is different than the stuff I use like on my dishes. I just stumbled upon this link which may or may not help me, http://www.musicplayer.com/daddario/why.html .

    Anyhow thanks for the help Tribb (and the site compliment!) and let me know if this helps you determine anything further. Rubbing down the saddle definitly sounds like something I will be doing asap.

    [ December 19, 2001 at 12:25 PM: Message edited by: Steely ]</p>
    "If at first you don't understand Van Halen's music, crank up the volume."
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  8. #8
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    03.30.13 @ 09:28 AM
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    Steely, yea 0000 steel wool is extra fine. Any hardware store carries it. It's not expensive and one pack will last you a lifetime. If you've adjusted the action that could be a slight problem because as the height of the bridge or saddle changes, so does the angle, and if there's any burr, or corrosion it'll show up then. I'd try buffing it with the steel wool. Don't use your dish scrubber.
    By the way, don't let the steel wool come into contact with your pickups. You could get little filings to break off and stick to the pickup. You might want to tape some paper towel or newspaper over the p/u's before you start. Be patient and buff each saddle the way I described earlier. As I said you won't wear the saddles, just polish them and because the steel wool is so fine it'll take a bit of buffing to polish them well. Use a wooden toothpick to get the steel wool into the groove. Good luck bud, and let me know if that helps.
    We'll go from there.

  9. #9
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    09.05.15 @ 12:20 PM
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    <blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by tribb:
    Be patient and buff each saddle the way I described earlier. As I said you won't wear the saddles, just polish them and because the steel wool is so fine it'll take a bit of buffing to polish them well. <hr></blockquote>

    ...or if your in a hurry, some 90 gritt sandpaper will do
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  10. #10
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    11.17.17 @ 08:12 AM
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    Just wanted to share that I did polish down the saddles and played a great gig last night with no broken strings! I gave all of them a good buffing and hopefully that'll do the trick for a while. But has anyone ever tried switching to graphite saddles? Other guitar player I play with had them put on his G&L and seems to be for it.

    peace...
    "If at first you don't understand Van Halen's music, crank up the volume."
    -Washington Post, April, 1980

  11. #11
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    03.30.13 @ 09:28 AM
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    Glad to hear it Steely. Yea, I've used graphite saddles before. Their pretty good, but I can't say if they'll affect the tone of your wolf.
    You might want to get some 3In 1 oil, and put just a very tiny droplet(tinier than a drop) on each string, right where it meets the saddle. 3 In 1 oil has anti-rust, and anti-corrosives in in so it can help to reduce the amount of corrosion build up on the saddles. You'll probably find that works as good as graphite saddles, without altering the appearance or sound of your guitar.
    You can do the same up at the nut. Just wipe it off and apply a new coat when changing strings, which you should do fairly often if you play regularly. Apply a tiny bit to the saddle groove before each gig.

  12. #12
    Eruption
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    01.23.09 @ 11:26 AM
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    Greatings!!
    It's yer 'ol pal Plstrcast (in cogneto)!
    I had the same problem with my Strat. I went the graphite bridge route. I did notice a slight difference in the tone, but it was actually BETTER then the stock! I havent blown a string on that guitar in YEARS! Somehow, the PRS bridge also has never blown a string. Anyone know if they make graphite replacement saddles for the PRS trem? I'm wondering if I should even bother though, you just cant beat that tone!
    Plstrcast everywhere else, Smudge NYC here.. so kiss my arse!<br /><br /><a href="http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/smudgenyc" target="_blank">http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/smudgenyc</a>

  13. #13
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    03.30.13 @ 09:28 AM
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    Smudge, you mentioned the graphite saddles changed your tone for the better. Better how?
    Did they increase sustain, give you more top or bottom end, more bite, etc.?
    I had graphite saddles on a strat a long time ago, and although it help with string breakage, I didn't like the way it altered the sound.
    I found by keeping the saddles clean and polished the string breakage problem was solved, and the sound was better.
    If your using high output humbuckers, that might, or might not make as much difference.
    Graphite is very different from steel in the way it transmits sound, so I'm curious as to what you've found.

  14. #14
    Eruption
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    01.23.09 @ 11:26 AM
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    Well, as you know, Strats are by nature shrill in tone, thats why we usually pop in new pickups. After reading an interview with Kenny Wayne Sheppard where he talked about graphite bridges, I gave it a whirl. I found it helped to "warm up" my tone a bit, took some of the "ring" out. I know, some of us WANT that "ring" in our tone, but it wasn't working for me. My tone is FAR from muddy, but it was, even with the Hotrail pickup, too "bright".
    It's funny, I wish there was a way that I could give you a "before/after" sample..

    [ December 27, 2001 at 08:28 AM: Message edited by: SMUDGE NYC ]</p>
    Plstrcast everywhere else, Smudge NYC here.. so kiss my arse!<br /><br /><a href="http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/smudgenyc" target="_blank">http://www.cdbaby.com/cd/smudgenyc</a>

  15. #15
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    03.30.13 @ 09:28 AM
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    Makes sense Smudge. I guess when using graphite saddles you have to take into account the pickups you're using, and the sound you expect to hear.
    I look for that older SRV tone from my strats, and I expect that ring, or chime. That could be why I didn't care for the change in tone. My p/u's are all very low output, and well away from the strings, letting the amp do the work.
    If you want that traditional old vintage chime, graphite may not be for you, but otherwise, if you don't mind losing a bit of top end sounds like they shouldn't be a problem. Thanks.

 

 

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