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  1. #1
    Eruption TheMightyCopenHalenII's Avatar
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    07.16.12 @ 10:56 PM
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    When I firsted started out, an EBMM EVH was the holy grail, but that balloon got popped due to my "mammoth" bank account...

    Before I started using EBAY, the musician's wet dream, I never really heard of that many that were flametops. Does anyone know when in the production process they started making em? Were they done late in the game? Were they produced alongside quilts?

    How about sound differences? Probably a dumbass question, but never hurts to ask...hasta
    FUCK THE DUMB SHIT!!!!

  2. #2
    Eruption rolsguitars's Avatar
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    01.22.09 @ 09:08 AM
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    HI,

    I have dealt quite a bit with the MM's I bought and sold several actually and had contacts in Japan that were using me to locate the used ones for export so they could get a $gazillion and a half for them, anyway I wondered this myself back then and from what I was told by the people at EB at first it was just quilts but very soon into the game they started flametops along side but at 1\2 the amount then 94ish (just before EVH was booted) they started making alot of flametops due to the infamous "quilt" shortage that Peavey also proclaimed. that's what I was told by them anyway
    Rol.

  3. #3
    Eruption TheMightyCopenHalenII's Avatar
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    07.16.12 @ 10:56 PM
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    Thanks for the info Rols...

    I just talked to a dude that has a first run Amber Flametop with the sales receipt in great condition...

    I've got two wolfs now, and after playing a Jackson DX2, the only guitar I had for about the last 6 or 7 years, I'm goin for it. Like I said, I've had the EBMM itch for years, and now I'm finally gonna find out if this puppy is all the rage, and how it compares to the Wolfs. By the way, what do you think about scorin it for fifteen?

    Thanks man
    FUCK THE DUMB SHIT!!!!

  4. #4
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    02.18.11 @ 08:09 PM
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    copen... yeah go for it.

    it's a totaly different guitar. just strum it without plugging it in and already you will hear it sounds completely different from a wolf or anything else.

    personally, i don't like the sound of it, but for 1500 seems reasonable to me. wolfs are going for 800 or so on ebay and the original evhebmm is a collectors item.

    i'm looking at picking one up my self for the collectability of it.

  5. #5
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    03.30.13 @ 09:28 AM
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    I've got an amber burst evh that was just over 500th off the line. It has the old style tremposts, as well as a couple of other slight differences till they standardized them, and it's a flametop. I've also had a no. of 92 and 93 flametops. From what I was told by a friend at MM they were pretty standard from 91 on.

  6. #6
    Eruption TheMightyCopenHalenII's Avatar
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    07.16.12 @ 10:56 PM
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    Right on Tribb...

    Man, the anticipation is killing me...I love it.

    Just 10 or more hours...damn
    FUCK THE DUMB SHIT!!!!

  7. #7
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    03.30.13 @ 09:28 AM
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    Good luck man. It's a completely different animal than the wolf.
    Let me know how it goes.

  8. #8
    Eruption TheMightyCopenHalenII's Avatar
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    07.16.12 @ 10:56 PM
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    Ok guys, I am now the proud owner of serial #80486 Amber Flametop EBMM EVH. I'm not sure if any of you guys know the serial numbers off hand or not, but the guy was saying there were 200 prototypes, then this is the '86th' production model. Whether or not that is the case I don't know. I emailed Ernie Ball, and this is pending their response.

    Either way, the axe was originally purchased in August 1991. He said he ordered it before it came out.

    Now indulge me in writing a novel if you will, because I have a huge list of questions about the axe as well as things I'd like to say about it:

    -It has no hardshell, just a gig bag. Hoping to fix that.
    -There is a good amount of corrosion on the left side of the tremolo unit where the dude was apparently resting his hand and "sweathoggin" it.
    -The body of the guitar really only has one noticeable ding. The finish however, seems to have lost its luster, and is worse in some spots than others.
    -It could use a refretting, the lower register is pretty slammed in.
    -The neck is in pristine condition, as well as the headstock and tuners.
    -I think the volume pot could use a shot of cleaner or possibly a replacement. It works fine, but when you turn it all the way down is when it tries to decide whether or not it wants to shut off or stay audible a bit.

    My main beef is the tremolo. I want some opinions as to what you guys think about having it replaced or doubtfully "restored." It works fine I must say and the fine tuners are in great shape. But corroded saddles have no place in my heart. Just want some opinions as what to do here.

    The finish, like I said, is ding free. But I seriously doubt it's as vibrant as it once was. I know they use a different finishing process than the Wolfgangs, and I have to say, I think the Wolf employs a much more durable and nicer finish. Again, I'm just curious if there's a way to restore the finish to it's original or at least better luster. This is not a big deal for me.

    Sonically, the guitar is MEAT! Extremely balanced string response, and what I would say is more of a midrange attack than my Wolf Standard. The neck is obviously different, but, I LIKE! Extremely sweet neck, buttah baby.

    I definitely have to change the setup of this instrument, and hope to obtain the original setup by Ernie Ball if possible. The height is not too high for me by any means, but I'd like to play it in it's factory state if possible.

    Does anyone have a particular Ernie Ball Point of contact they dig dealing with? Just wondering who the best is.

    Any info, critique, or input is greatly appreciated guys...hell yeah
    FUCK THE DUMB SHIT!!!!

  9. #9
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    03.30.13 @ 09:28 AM
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    Glad you got a good deal on it. Post a picture if you can.
    Actually, from what I'm told there were only 10 prototypes made.
    Ed's amber quilt has no serial # on it and was the first original prototype.
    First off, get a proper case. The instrument's too valuable to keep in a baggy.
    Corrosion wise, there's not a heck of a lot you can do except possibly take the saddles to a shop where they can rechrome them for you.
    That can be done.
    EBMM doesn't sell the saddles for the original EBMM EVH's any more. If you want the bridge you have to buy the whole assembly. The saddles for the Axis bridge, although it looks the same, are not the same as those of the original EVH bridge and won't fit properly. The bridge for the axis was changed.
    Anyone in customer service at EBMM can tell you what type of frets to use if you want the original size, but you might want a larger fret so you can do that too.
    It's a big job to replace the finish and not worth it because it might affect the dye. It won't affect the value down the road so I wouldn't worry about that. If it really bothers you, take it to a luthier and see if he can buff it for you, but be careful.
    The finish on the EVH's isn't as hard as that of the wolfs and they will ding easier, but the finish is still pretty hard, more so on the back.
    If the volume pot crackles when you turn it, then it could be a problem, but it could also be the cap on it. Open the cavity in the back and have a look. You can buy the volume pot from EBMM if you need to, and it's no big deal to replace.
    As far as setup, when you have it refretted the tech will set it up to your specs as well. Refretting it is the first thig I'd do if I was you. It'll play better and faster.
    You got a good deal bud. Enjoy it.

  10. #10
    Eruption TheMightyCopenHalenII's Avatar
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    07.16.12 @ 10:56 PM
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    Greatly appreciated Tribb.

    Have you seen any first year models or comparable year run, where they have have been worked like a mother? I'm just wondering how these Music Man Trem Units wear...

    Is there any kind of polish you can by to apply to the body and buff out, or is a luthier the way to go. I'll put it this way to describe the bod, it still shows reflections like a mother, and I don't want to necessarily say neglected, but it seems like there some build up or again, neglect of polishing it. The guy didn't touch it for like five years after he used and abused it.

    I like a decent looking bridge, now, I really don't know who could provide a service of "rechroming" it...I really don't. There weren't a whole lot of luthiers where I grew up (in fact I don't think there were any, well except for one, but he's a grumpy drunk loon), so I don't know who to look for.

    Otherwise, this axe is sweet. I want to "restore" as much of it as I can, for instance the pickup pole pieces are aging, and possibly on their way to the infant stages of corrosion. I'll tell you what, I don't know where he stored this guitar, but I found what I looked like mildew almost atop the fine tuners on the fucked up side.

    I haven't been able to play this bitch through my 5150 combo yet, so I'm waiting to see how killer this stick is at loud volumes...

    Anything you guys can share about these axes, is more than appreciated...
    FUCK THE DUMB SHIT!!!!

  11. #11
    Good Enough nobozos's Avatar
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    12.16.17 @ 06:52 PM
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    Okay, I'm going to give this advice without being able to see what kind of corrosion you have on the bridge. I am going to assume that the crome is not actually corroded, or chipped. If it isn't, cleanup should be fairly easy. You will need to disassemble your bridge assembly. Be very careful to remember where each bridge saddle goes, as they are different heights. Take all the black screws and washers that mount the bridge saddles, and clean them with an oil based chemical solvent. WD-40 or some other penetrating oil will work ok. Use a toothbrush to remove as much rust as possible. After that, soak the pieces in gun oil (like you clean a gun with). Re-assemble your bridge, and you should be clear. If the chrome is chipped or corroded, I would just live with it, but it should not be rusting. The rust should be isolated to the parts I described.

    As far as the body goes, I would get some Ernie Ball guitar polish, and apply it over the entire guitar. You may want to apply several coats to bring out a shine in the body. If this doesn't do the trick, just live with it, and call it character. I definitely would not alter the finish of the guitar in any way. The more original you can keep it, the more it will be worth. Hell, Fender even adds rust and dings to new guitars, calls them "Relics" and charges a shit load of money for them. Small imperfections in a collectors guitar are no big deal, as long as it doesn't affect the playability.
    "Having an opinion that people disagree with doesn't make you a Douche, arguing with the people who disagree with your opinion and calling them stupid does!" -Me.

  12. #12
    Eruption TheMightyCopenHalenII's Avatar
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    07.16.12 @ 10:56 PM
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    Well...time to get dirty.

    Thanks NoBozos...
    FUCK THE DUMB SHIT!!!!

  13. #13
    Eruption Onirb's Avatar
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    12.14.17 @ 05:17 PM
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    Donor

    I did the wd-40 routine on my old Kramer trem about 3 months ago and it worked well. It is definately worth trying.

  14. #14
    Eruption TheMightyCopenHalenII's Avatar
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    07.16.12 @ 10:56 PM
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    Fellas, I cleaned the trem/saddles following NOBozos advice...and it does look a hell of a lot better. The E A D saddles, have lost a bit of chrome, but the whole things looks much better...

    The body, with some Gibson polish, while I must say it is by no means immaculate, also looks worlds better.

    Now for adjustments. I was wondering if you guys had any pictures of a stock trem setup, or could give a few ideas about the location of the saddles.

    I screwed the trem posts pretty much flush, and it looks like the claw could use some adjustment, cause it's riding up barely...

    Anything helpful on the stock setup is helpful, and thanks again dudes...
    FUCK THE DUMB SHIT!!!!

  15. #15
    Good Enough nobozos's Avatar
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    12.16.17 @ 06:52 PM
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    Okay man, now were going to get tricky. I have never owned an original EBMM/EVH, but if the trem posts are anything like the Axis, here is what to do. The trem posts are tapered where the trem assembly rides on the posts. There should be about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch of the trem post exposed below the taper. Really this adjustment is up to your personal preference, depending on how low you want your action to be. Personally, I would just lower the bridge as low as I could without getting any fret buzz.

    As far as the bridge saddle position, the best advice I can give you is to go to Peavey.com and download the Wolfgang Owner's Manual. Once this is done, go to the section under "intonation adjustment". Follow those instructions carefully. The Wolfgang Owner's Manual tells you how to do just about every adjustment on the guitar. It even gives the factory tolerences for the Wolfgang(string height on the neck adjustment, ect..)

    Spring tension is in there also. This is also a preference adjustment up to the player. [img]graemlins/thumb.gif[/img]
    "Having an opinion that people disagree with doesn't make you a Douche, arguing with the people who disagree with your opinion and calling them stupid does!" -Me.

 

 

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