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  1. #1
    Eruption AFU's Avatar
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    12.10.17 @ 09:00 AM
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    I was wondering if anyone had some tips on adding an oil finish to a new, unfinished neck. I want to get a Warmoth neck but I think $50 for them to add finish is way to high.
    Bye the way, I have an old (10yrs)Warmoth standard neck that is SO close to my Axis neck. That's why I want another for my new project! Thanks!

  2. #2
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    03.30.13 @ 09:28 AM
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    If it's raw maple, you can add a gunstock oil/gunstock wax combination finish, or use tung oil, which is a harder drying oil finish, but protects for a longer time. It's time consuming to do either right and no shortcuts should be taken. You'll also need a good buffing wheel to do it right.
    Keep in mind that Warmoth will oil finish a neck for you, although I don't believe they'll warrantee an oil finish neck because it has to be kept up to be effective and a lot of guys just slap some lemon oil on, thinking that it will protect their necks. It won't.
    50. is not a lot for a professionally finished neck.

    [ April 02, 2002 at 01:55 PM: Message edited by: tribb ]</p>

  3. #3
    Eruption AFU's Avatar
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    12.10.17 @ 09:00 AM
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    Hmmm...I was thinking tung oil but this gun oil/wax combo is interesting. Is it a 50/50 mix? I have an oil finish WD body I did myself and it came out perfect so I think I might be able to do a neck too. Keyword being "think".
    VH III is Ed's solo album. So everybody who keeps saying they wish he'd do one needs to stfu and listen to III. Then stfu again.

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    03.30.13 @ 09:28 AM
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    No, it's not 50/50. I just mix the gun wax in till it feels like the right consistency on a peice of scrap maple. It's probably about 70/30, 30 being the liquid gunwax.
    You have to apply a couple of coats, and it gets kind of sticky feeling when you start to buff by hand.
    You've got to do the final buffing using a buffing wheel to get it as smooth and clean feeling without any residue behind, while still sealing the neck. It's easier to use tung oil, but follow directions on the container, and get a good brand of tung oil. The stuff dries pretty hard, so wipe off any excess between coats. A new raw neck could take 3-4 coats. Give it an hour or two between and let the last coat dry overnight after you've wiped it clean of excess oil. The neck should always feel smooth between coats.
    After the last coat take some very fine 0000 grade steel wool, and polish the frets only to get the dried oil off the frets. You'll see them polish up nicely as the oil comes off them.
    Then get your buffing wheel, which can be a drill type lamb's wool wheel, and take your time buffing it up. It should still feel like wood, but be somewhat darker, and feel very smooth when your done.
    If you do the oil/wax combo the same applies. Wipe off any excess between coats, and give it time to dry before buffing. Buff by hand first, then use the the buffing wheel as the final polishing method, and also use the fine steel wool to remove excess oil and wax from the fret surface before buffing.
    Keep in mind this is only for raw maple. Don't use it on rosewood, ebony, or mahogany.

  5. #5
    Eruption AFU's Avatar
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    12.10.17 @ 09:00 AM
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    Yo man, thanks. I think tung oil is the way to go. I'll be ordering a neck from Warmoth tomorrow or Fri. Thanks again! Late.
    VH III is Ed's solo album. So everybody who keeps saying they wish he'd do one needs to stfu and listen to III. Then stfu again.

 

 

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